HAIR CARE
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Investigating naturally derived silicone alternative
Andrea Serrano Trujillo, Uriel Plata, and Saso Efremovski - TRI-K Industries ABSTRACT
Fision® EcoSil, composed of Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate and Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiable, is a naturally derived ingredient from olive oil, proposed as an alternative to traditional silicones, such as cyclopentasiloxane and low viscosity dimethicone. These studies explore the physicochemical properties and performance characteristics of this olive-derived ester in hair and skin care applications. Various comparative analyses and instrumental evaluations were performed, including consumer assessment of hair and skin sensory attributes, wet hair combing, hair shine on UV damaged hair, and solubility comparisons. In hair care formulations, the upcycled silicone alternative improves manageability, ease of wet and dry combing, and shine. The consumer assessment results indicate that the olive- derived ester exhibits a similar hair sensory profile to cyclopentasiloxane. In skin care applications, it provides increased smoothness, softness, and moisturization compared to dimethicone. The olive-derived ester also shows compatibility with a greater range of oils than dimethicone. The study results suggest that the olive- derived ester is a viable natural alternative to silicones, offering comparable sensory and performance benefits, with the additional advantage of sustainability.
Silicones have been important ingredients in hair care shampoos, conditioners, colourants, and styling products, functioning as either emollients, humectants, film formers, anti-foaming agents, anti-static agents, or binding agents.1 These materials range from basic cyclic
or linear polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) to polyether and amino-based fluids and silicone resins.2
Although all silicones originate from
natural silica, synthetic processes are used to create the diverse silicone ingredients used in cosmetics.3 Volatile silicones, such as
cyclopentasiloxane, help to make hair feel silky and smooth by lubricating the cuticle and increasing slip. Dimethicone, another commonly used silicone in hair care, coats the hair shaft with a protective film, locking in moisture and improving combability and manageability. In skin care, silicones are also commonly
used for their softening and moisturizing properties. For example, dimethicone can provide smoothing qualities and a protective layer on the skin. While these silicones and similar ingredients
have historically fulfilled these purposes, they are becoming less favourable by today’s
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consumer standards due to their synthetic nature. Additionally, some silicone materials are now subject to regulatory restrictions due to concerns about their toxicological and environmental impact. For example, recent EU regulations have
limited the use of cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane in rinse-off and leave-on systems.4
This, along with the consumer desire
for natural, safe, and sustainable alternatives, has created an urgency for brands to find alternatives to these chemistries. Lastly, movement away from silicones has also become more prevalent due to negative long- term effects of usage, such as causing build-up, greasiness, and scalp accumulation. Fision EcoSil is TRI-K’s solution for the need
for a 100% naturally derived, upcycled silicone- alternative emollient. Sourced from olive oil, this upcycled innovation is also compatible with other natural oil solvents. A key highlight of this technology is that it has been designed to provide a silicone- like feel in both hair and skin formulations. Through five comprehensive studies, including instrumental analyses, consumer sensory evaluations, and solubility comparison tests, it
is confirmed that this olive-derived ester not only meets but often exceeds the performance of competing silicones.
Methods & measurements Wet combing improvements Wet combing improvement was studied on virgin blonde hair tresses. Hair tresses were initially clarified using 10% sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) solution to remove any impurities. Following the clarification step, the tresses were then grouped and washed with a placebo shampoo, ensuring uniform starting conditions. Readings were measured using the Dia-Stron MTT175 Miniature Tensile Tester in the combing orientation.5 The prepared hair tresses were divided
into three groups for treatment: the first group was treated with a placebo conditioner, the second group with a conditioner containing 2% olive-derived ester, and the third group with a conditioner containing 2% cyclopentasiloxane. Each treatment was applied five times to the
respective groups of hair tresses. Wet combing forces were measured after five applications of each treatment to assess the effectiveness of the conditioners in improving wet combing ease.
September 2024 PERSONAL CARE
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