58 UPCYCLED INGREDIENTS
Exploring the power of upcycled tamarind
Rossana Colombo, Barbara Biasotti – Lamberti ABSTRACT
Cationic polymers are important components especially in hair care, providing ease of combing and sensory benefits. With sustainability becoming essential for personal care ingredients, conventional and naturally-derived conditioning polymers often lack biodegradability, while most natural alternatives underperform. To address this, Lamberti has developed Esaflor® T. Obtained from the seeds of Tamarindus indica L., a byproduct of the food industry, this novel polymer combines performance in line with market requirements, ready biodegradability and upcycled origin from renewable resources. This article describes its benefits in hair care, including superior conditioning, detangling, shine, smoothness, softness, anti-static effects, and foam-enhancement, comparing the novel tamarind derivative to Polyquaternium-10.
Cationic polymers are essential components in conditioners and conditioning shampoos, providing ease of combing and contributing to a positive sensory experience. With sustainability becoming a key factor in ingredient selection due to eco-conscious consumers and recent regulatory requirements, conventional synthetic and naturally-derived polymers often lack biodegradability. Natural alternatives, meanwhile, frequently fail to meet consumers’ performance expectations. Addressing this unmet need, Lamberti
embraced the challenge to engineer an advanced, sustainable solution. The journey started with a deep investigation of the class of hydrocolloid derivatives, followed by a meticulous fine-tuning of their properties through chemical modification. This research culminated in the
development of a novel quaternized carboxymethyl tamarind (QCT): Esaflor® T. This innovative ingredient meets market performance standards, offers ready biodegradability, and comes from upcycled renewable resources.
Tamarind tree: a botanical treasure At the heart of this innovation is tamarind. Tamarindus indica L. is an evergreen tree, moderate to large in size, belonging to family
PERSONAL CARE September 2024
Leguminosae (Fabaceae). Today, it flourishes in tropical and subtropical regions, with India and Thailand being the leading tamarind world producers. T. indica is known for its delicious appetising fruit, with the soft pulp used in a variety of culinary creations like chutneys, sauces, sweets, and beverages. Beyond its food applications, tamarind has long been valued for its multifaceted uses. Several parts of the tree—such as
pulp, roots, wood, bark and leaves —are employed across various industries, including pharmaceuticals, and can contribute to the development of green and sustainable products. Traditionally used in Ayurvedic medicine, for instance, tamarind continues to be a valuable remedy for various ailments, due to its antidiabetic, antimicrobial, and antioxidant properties.1
Tamarind seed polysaccharide: an upcycled ingredient Although the pulp is the most valuable part of tamarind, thanks to its pleasant flavour and nutritional benefits, it makes up only 30–50% of the ripe fruit. The remainder consists of the shell and fibre (11–30%) and seed (25–40%).2 The seeds, however, are considered as byproducts and are often discarded, leading to
significant waste.3 Despite this, they are a hidden gem. They
contain a large amount of polysaccharides, with tamarind seed polysaccharide (TSP), also known as tamarind gum, being the most abundant. TSP is a neutral xyloglucan composed of a β-(1,4)-d-glucan backbone carrying α-(1,6)-d-xylose and β-(1,2)-d- galactose substituents in a molar ratio of 3.1:1.7:1 (Figure 1).
The unique side-chains of TSP impart
valuable functionalities: it is a biocompatible, edible and biodegradable natural polymer,4 characterised by broad pH tolerance, thermal stability, adhesivity, as well as high viscosity and non-Newtonian, pseudoplastic behaviour.5
in cosmetics and particularly in skin care, for its ability to form films, hydrate, and create a protective barrier on the skin that reduces water loss. It has also been reported to improve skin elasticity, smoothness,5
These characteristics make it ideal
as emulsion stabilizer, thickener and binder in the food and pharmaceutical industries.6 Recently, TSP is gaining popularity also
and the
overall texture of personal care products, providing a silky, non-greasy sensation. Also the personal care industry, therefore, is starting to explore the potential of this versatile and upcycled hydrocolloid.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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