MARINE INGREDIENTS
63
'Sustainabeautly': merging sustainability and beauty
Pilar Águila, Juan Pablo De la Roche - MC Actives/Microalgae Solutions
Ultraviolet rays enter through the atmosphere and heat the Earth’s surface, which radiates the heat again. Greenhouse gases (GHGs) absorb the heat, leading to an increase in the temperature surface. Those GHGs are also responsible for air
pollution. Those factors produce a double effect. The first is anthropogenic climate change, with the consequences that we all know: water scarcity, melting polar ice, intense droughts and so on. The second effect is the production of
reactive oxygen species (ROS) that, when overproduced, can be harmful for all living organisms. ROS are molecules that contain at least one oxygen atom and one or more unpaired electrons. Examples are singlet oxygen radicals (1
O2
) or
hydroxyl radicals. ROS are produced naturally because of our metabolism functioning, but in small quantities. The problem arises when they are accumulated in our bodies as they trigger numerous reactions leading to skin tissues damaging.1 ROS can lead to:
■ Inflammation through prostaglandin E2 synthesis ■ Damage the skin barrier oxidizing lipids and proteins. ■ Increase sebum secretion (due to high levels of oxidized lipids) ■ Produce acne lesions (produced by 1 ■ 1
O2 O2 reduces the expression of matrix
metalloproteinase (MMP-1) in dermal fibroblasts, leading a reduction of collagen production and, hence, an impairment in the dermal matrix
Unveiling the ‘Sustainabeautly’ concept Luckily, this situation is reversible, as there are antioxidant molecules with the capacity to avoid ROS formation or scavenge them. Potential antioxidant molecules are ascorbic acid, vitamin E, carotenoids, or polyphenols.1 Natural extracts, contain those antioxidant molecules and can accomplish multifunctional benefits for our skin, apart from the antioxidant action. ‘Sustainabeautly’ arises as a concept that
merges sustainability and beauty. One cannot repair the damage caused by unsustainability without taking care of the planet, as it is a bidirectional action: repair, but also protect. MC Actives/Microalgae Solutions produce natural, marine, and sustainable active
www.personalcaremagazine.com ).
ingredients with demonstrated efficacy. Sustainability is present along all the production line of the ingredient, specifically in two major steps: upstream processing: holobiont cultivation; and downstream processing: ingredient fabrication.
Upstream processing: holobiont cultivation Phytoplankton cultivation itself for cosmetic ingredient production has various advantages over traditional crop cultivation. For instance, phytoplankton can be grown without fertile soil, prevent and reduce water pollution without the need for fertilizers. However, its cultivation at pilot or large scale is a limiting factor as high quantities of water and energy supply are needed.2 Systems to cultivate phytoplankton are
divided into two main groups: open and closed reactors, although there exist also hybrid systems. Closed photobioreactors are employed
for cosmetic ingredient production as standardization and production reproducibility is possible compared to the other systems, while open reactors are used in other fields like agriculture. Moreover, closed reactors produce biomass
with more quality, and has lower contamination risks. Other advantages of closed reactors
ABSTRACT
MC Actives and Microalgae Solutions have launched three marine ingredients with a ‘blue biotech’ patented technology (PBT®) under a sustainable approach, that includes use of green solvents, upcycling of solvents and sustainable pathways trough a zero- waste production, maximizing the use of all the fractions of the process (supernatant and pellet). The sustainable-marine ingredients (Phycoskin® One, Osmocean Phycoskin, and OpenSee Phycoskin), are focused on different actions on the skin: whitening, anti- ageing, and eye contour care
versus other systems of cultivation are that there are less water evaporation and CO2
losses,
it requires less space for its installation, the culture growth rate is higher, and it does not depend on the weather.3 However, closed photobioreactors has a series
of drawbacks such as: high setup cost, it needs more energy inputs, and it is difficult to scale up.3 To overcome those disadvantages, we
develop a cutting-edge technology to produce phytoplankton holobiont: Phycosphere Biodynamic Technology® (PBT). PBT consists of a system that biomimics the conditions
September 2024 PERSONAL CARE
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88
