28 FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS
40 30 20 10 0
-10 -20 -30 -40
-13.9%
+14.0% +5.0% -0.7%
+13.1%
S. Lauroyl Glutamate
Glutamate
Olivoil
Glucoside
Decyl
SLES
S. Cocoyl Glycinate
Figure 5: Shine values average percentage variation The values are expressed as mass of water
vapour per area and time (g/m2 h). OG proved to be non-aggressive, showing the best score among the substances object of the study.
Hair conditioning through contact angle variation Test results show that all the strands treated with the surfactants under investigation (except SLES) increased their contact angle when compared with the control strand; OG (Figure 4) reported one of the best performances, increasing the angle by 26%, suggesting greater cuticular adhesion, thus film-forming and conditioning action. Conversely, the harsh washing action of
SLES contributes to cuticle opening causing hydrophilic behaviour of the strand, typical of damaged hair.
Hair luminosity Results (Figure 5) show that OG, SCG and DG induced a luminosity increase of the treated locks. In particular, OG and SCG presented the highest values, with OG leading the way with a recorded improvement by 14%. In contrast, the use of SLG and SLES dulled
the hair, recording a decrease in the detected L* parameter.
Hair frizz value From the results obtained (Figure 6), OG reduces frizz in the treated strands, with a percentage change of - 4.4%. In contrast, the use of SLG, SLES, DG made
the hair less disciplined and more frizzy with ‘fly-aways’ increases by respectively 78.1%, 47.1% and 17.3%.
Foam tests (Data not shown) demonstrate that the ‘surf-active’ complex is able to promote the formation of a more compact foam than all the other tested products at all the check points.
Conclusion The sodium olivoyl glutamate ‘surf-active’ complex was designed from the need imposed by modern trends to adapt to the standards of eco-sustainability, biodegradability and selection of “clean” sources in a critical category of raw materials, like the surfactants.
PERSONAL CARE September 2024
100 80 60 40 20 0
+78.1%
+47.1%
+17.3% -4.4%
S. Lauroyl Glutamate
Glutamate Olivoil Glucoside Decyl SLES Figure 6: Frizz values: average percentage variation The fatty acids from olive oil that constitute
it are obtained through an upcycling process of lampante olive oil, and its functionalization with glutamic acid (skin-compatible amino acid, expressed at high concentrations also at the level of hair keratin) make it highly biodegradable and with excellent rinsing properties, making it suitable for the development of ‘water saving’ cosmetics products) In vivo studies on skin and ex vivo analysis
on Caucasian hair locks carried out on various surfactants, show that the sodium olivoyl glutamate ‘surf-active’ complex has proven to be one of the best performing products, in particular on anti-frizz action, conditioning effect on the hair (intended as the ability to regulate the physiological hydrophobicity of the epicuticle), increase in luminosity, TEWL reduction, skin hydration increase and dermocompatibility (it was the only one among the products tested not to give positive erythema index values). Its specific foaming properties make
it capable of determining, even at low concentrations of use, improvement of the foam profile (denser and creamier), improvement of the after-feel, and of the hedonism associated with the application of the products, with an embracing, soft and emollient effect.
PC
References 1. Badmus SO, Amusa HK, Oyehan TA, Saleh TA. Environmental risks and toxicity of surfactants: overview of analysis, assessment, and remediation techniques. Environ. Sci. Pollut. Res. 2021; 28, p: 62085–62104
2. Johnson P, Trybala A, Starov V, Pinfield V.J. Effect of synthetic surfactants on the environment and the potential for substitution by biosurfactants. Advances in Colloid And Interface Science. February 2021; vol. 288, p.102340
3. Martins AM, Marto JM. A sustainable life cycle for cosmetics: From design and development to post-use phase. Sustainable Chemistry and Pharmacy. 2023; 35, p.101178
4. Mehling A, Kleber M, Hensen H. Comparative studies on the ocular and dermal irritation potential of surfactants. Food and Chemical Toxicology. 2007; vol 45(5), p:747-758
5. Su E, Gong P, Wang T, Sha J, Wang H, Wu J,
Lion S. Water-saving: Glutamate and Alaninate Surfactants to Reduce Rinsing. Cosmetics & Toiletries. 2020, p:59
6. Baumann L., Weisberg E. Olive Oil in Botanical Cosmeceuticals. Olives and Olive Oil in Health and Disease Prevention. 2010. Chapter 2, p: 1117-1124
7. Pappas A, Johnsen S, Liu J, Eisinger M. Sebum analysis of individuals with and without acne. Dermatoendicrinology. 2009; 1(3), p:157-161
8. Medeiros-de-Moraes IM, Gonçalves-de- Albuquerque CF, Kurz ARM, Oliveira FMJ, de Abreu VHP, Torres RC, Carvalho VF, Estato V, Bozza PT, Sperandio M, de Castro-Faria- Neto HC, Silva AR. Omega-9 Oleic Acid, the Main Compound of Olive Oil, Mitigates Inflammation during Experimental Sepsis. Oxidative Medicine And Cellular Longevity. 2018
9. Martín-Ezquerra G, Sánchez-Regaña M, Umbert-Millet P. Optimization of narrow- band uvb with a 5% oleic acid cream in the treatment of psoriasis. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology. 2007; Mar;6(3):290-2
10. Dauber C, Parente E, Zucca MP, Gámbaro A, Vieitez I. Olea europea and By-Products: Extraction Methods and Cosmetic Applications. Cosmetics. 2023; 10(4), p:112
11. Nasrollahi S. A, Ayatollahi A, Yazdanparast T, Samadi A, Hosseini H, Shamsipour M, Firooz A. Comparison of linoleic acid-containing water- in-oil emulsion with urea-containing water- in-oil emulsion in the treatment of atopic dermatitis: a randomized clinical trial. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. 2018; vol.11, p. 21–28
12. Ando H, Ryu A, Hashimoto A, Oka M, Ichihashi M. Linoleic acid and α-linolenic acid lightens ultraviolet-induced hyperpigmentation of the skin. Archives of Dermatological Research. 1998; issue 7, p. 375-381
13. Letawe C, Boone M, Piérard G.E. Digital image analysis of the effect of topically applied linoleic acid on acne microcomedones. Clinical and Experimental Dermatology. 1998; 23, p: 56-58
14. Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti- Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. International Journal of Molecular Science. 2017; 19(1), p. 70
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