56 UPCYCLED INGREDIENTS In addition, an ex vivo study was performed
on skin explants with a cream containing 0.5% or 1% Chios mandarins active or the corresponding control. The treatment with the Chios mandarins active for seven days resulted in a visible increase in the ratio of young to mature collagen (Figure 5). To elucidate the calming and rejuvenating
effect of our Chios mandarins active, a randomized placebo-controlled clinical study was conducted on a panel of volunteers with signs of skin redness as well as photo-ageing. Twenty women aged between 51 and 68
years (mean 60.9 years) applied a cream containing 2% Chios mandarins active (INCI: Citrus Reticulata Extract/Citrus Reticulata (Tangerine) Extract (and) Glycerin (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Aqua/Water, CALMandrin™) or a corresponding placebo on each side of their face and on two separate areas on the forearms twice daily for 28 days. Treatment with the Chios mandarins active
led to a visible improvement in skin redness by -15.9% compared to initial conditions. Interestingly, facial skin redness was already decreased after seven days of Chios mandarins active treatment demonstrating a fast-acting effect on reddened skin (Figure 6). In addition to skin redness, the effect of our
Chios mandarins active on signs of ageing was investigated on the same panel of volunteers. Treatment with 2% Chios mandarins active increased skin elasticity by 29.5% and 29.3% after seven and 28 days compared to initial conditions. Furthermore, the Chios mandarins active
enhanced skin firmness by 13.9% and 16.9% after 7 and 28 days, respectively. Only seven days of Chios mandarins active application strongly improved skin elasticity and skin firmness, highlighting a rapid improvement of the skin parameters. Besides skin firmness and elasticity, 2%
Chios mandarins active significantly improved skin density measured on the forearm by 11.1% after 28 days of treatment compared to initial conditions (Figures 7 and 8).
Before Placebo â– 2% Chios mandarin active â–
12 9 6 3 0
* After 28 days
*p<0.05 versus initial conditions Figure 7: Improvement of skin density
Conclusion Thanks to its anti-inflammaging effect, the here described active ingredient derived from Chios mandarins markedly increases the firmness and density of the skin. This upcycled elixir is based on the peel paste of organic mandarins discarded from the distillation process of fragrance production. The mandarins are grown exclusively in historic orchards on the Greek island of Chios. To summarize, our Chios mandarins
active counteracts the inflammatory immune response that results from both chronic ageing and extrinsic stress to win the race against the inflammaging-induced signs of skin ageing.
References 1. Pilkington SM, Bulfone-Paus S, Griffiths CEM, Watson REB. Inflammaging and the Skin. J. Invest. Dermatol. 2021;141(4S):1087-95
2. Pillai S, Oresajo C, Hayward J. Ultraviolet radiation and skin aging: roles of reactive oxygen species, inflammation and protease activation, and strategies for prevention of
PC
inflammation-induced matrix degradation - a review. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2005;27(1):17-34
3. Haque A, Woolery-Lloyd H. Inflammaging in Dermatology: A New Frontier for Research. J. Drugs Dermatol. 2021;20(2):144-9
4. Xia S, Zhang X, Zheng S, Khanabdali R, Kalionis B, Wu J et al. An Update on Inflamm-Aging: Mechanisms, Prevention, and Treatment. J. Immunol. Res. 2016;2016:8426874
5. Varzakas T, Stampelos X, Manolopoulou E. Changes in physico-chemical characteristics of mandarin (common Mediterranean cultivar) Chiotiko (Citrus deliciosa Tenore) from Chios Island in Greece - evaluation of antioxidant capacity and flavonoid content of citrus peels. International Journal of Postharvest Technology and Innovation. 2013;3(2)
6. Ren H, Hao J, Liu T, Zhang D, Lv H, Song E et al. Hesperetin Suppresses Inflammatory Responses in Lipopolysaccharide-Induced RAW 264.7 Cells via the Inhibition of NF-kappaB and Activation of Nrf2/HO-1 Pathways. Inflammation. 2016;39(3):964-73
Epidermis Dermis
Epidermis Dermis
Placebo â– 2% Chios mandarin active â–
20 15 10 5 0
-5 -10 7 Days
28 Days *p<0.05 versus placebo
Figure 8: Improvement of skin firmness and elasticity PERSONAL CARE September 2024
www.personalcaremagazine.com * * 20 10 0 * 7 Days 28 Days
*p<0.05 versus initial conditions *p<0.0001 versus initial conditions
30 *
Placebo â– 2% Chios mandarin active â– **
Change in skin firmness compared to initial conditions in %
Change in skin density compared to initial conditions in %
Change in skin elasticity compared to initial conditions in %
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