60 UPCYCLED INGREDIENTS
the innovative tamarind derivative significantly reduces wet combing force, outperforming not only a control formulation without cationic polymers, but also tamarind gum. This underscores the critical role of chemical modifications to the native gum in enhancing the conditioning performance. Furthermore, QCT slightly outperforms Polyquaternium-10, revealing results in line with market standards (Figure 2). For the combing test, a Diastron MTT175
Miniature Tensile Tester was used; this instrument measures the friction generated between a comb and hair fibres during grooming. All the polymers were tested at 0.5% inclusion level, in a conditioning shampoo chassis based on 10.1% SLES, 3.8% CAPB, pH 5. Prior to combing force measurements,
regular bleached Caucasian hair tresses were pre-washed with a 10% SLES solution,12
for an
effective elimination of potential contaminants from previous treatments. Then, the basic combing force of each individual tress was determined; tresses were then treated with the formulated shampoos and wet combing performance of each individual tress was evaluated and compared to the relevant basic value.
Sensory benefits on dry hair Aesthetics and sensoriality of dry hair are other critical parameters for conditioning agents. While consumers immediately notice how their hair feels when wet (a property associated with wet-combing results), effects on dry hair significantly affect overall satisfaction and perceived product efficacy. Attributes such as smoothness, softness, shine, and manageability are essential for consumer acceptance and repeated product use. Assessing performance on dry hair provides therefore a complete understanding of the benefits conditioning agents offer. Hair treated with QCT is softer, more
slippery, easier to comb, shinier and with a reduced static/fly away effect compared to tresses treated with a control formulation (i.e. without polymers) and with Polyquaternium-10 (Figure 3). The novel tamarind derivative, therefore, surpassed established market benchmarks on dry hair. The assessment on dry hair was performed
by ten trained and expert panelists according to Quantitative Descriptive Analysis (QDA) standard protocol.13
The test was carried out in a
bioclimatic room (24 ± 2°C) on locks of straight, Caucasian, virgin hair (± 16 cm, ± 5 g), previously washed with a shampoo chassis based on 10.1% SLES, 3.8% CAPB, 0.5% polymer, pH 5. Panelists evaluated and scored the
hair tresses based on a blind, randomised order of presentation. The evaluation was repeated three times on three different days, with sample codes being changed at each working session. Higher scores indicate better performance in all categories except for static/ fly-away effect, where lower scores correspond to superior results.
Foam quality QCT also helps generating a softer and
PERSONAL CARE September 2024
SLIPPERINESS (Tactile
evaluation) Quatemized Carboxymethyl Tamarind â– Polyquaternium-10 â– Control â–
SHINE (Visual evaluation)
7.0 6.5 6.0 5.5 5.0 4.5 4.0
evaluation)
SOFTNESS (Tactile
STATIC EFFECT (Visual
evaluation) Figure 3: Sensory results on dry hair
creamier foam (Figure 4A), when included into a surfactant-based formulation, compared to a control formulation without the polymer (Figure 4B). This foam-enhancing property is
particularly beneficial for hair and skin cleansing applications, as consumers highly value abundant, high-quality foam. Such foam is often perceived as an immediate indicator of superior care, contributing to an enhanced sensory experience and overall satisfaction with the product.
Formulation examples To summarise, the properties and applicative benefits of QCT make this ingredient exceptionally well-suited for both hair and skin care applications. Its versatility allows it to be incorporated into a wide range of nature- inspired and eco-conscious formulations, including shampoos, conditioners, shower gels, skin cleansers, creams, and lotions. Its ability to enhance conditioning, improve
sensory attributes, and create a creamy, soft foam positions it as an ideal choice for high-performance products. Moreover, its sustainable and biodegradable nature aligns with the growing consumer demand for environmentally friendly ingredients. Table 1 and 2 depict two examples of hair care formulations containing QCT.
Conclusion Esaflor T, Lamberti’s novel quaternized carboxymethyl tamarind , represents a significant advancement in the field of conditioning polymers for personal care products. This innovative hydrocolloid, derived from Tamarindus Indica L., not only
meets the high-performance standards required by the market but also addresses the growing demand for sustainable and biodegradable ingredients. The novel QCT exhibits superior
conditioning benefits, including enhanced detangling, shine, smoothness, softness, and anti-static effects, outperforming conventional Polyquaternium-10. Its sensorial and foam- enhancing properties further contribute to its desirability in hair and skin cleansing formulations, where high-quality foam is associated with premium care. By upcycling a food industry byproduct and ensuring ready biodegradability, the QCT exceeds market sustainability expectations. This makes it a valuable addition to the portfolio of ingredients for formulators aiming to create environmentally responsible and high-performance hair- and skin-care products. With Esaflor T, Lamberti demonstrated
how thoughtful chemical modifications can enhance the performance of natural materials, achieving superior results while preserving their intrinsic natural essence.
References 1. Sheikh H, Shivanna, GB. Tamarindus indica seeds and their neutraceutical applications. J. Food. Process. Preserv. 2022; 46(1):e17208
2. Rao YS, Mathew KM. Tamarind. In: Peter KV, editor. Handbook of herbs and spices. 2nd ed. Oxford: Woodhead Publishing Limited; 2000. p. 287-292
3. Zhang H, Cui H, Xie F, Song Z, Ai L. Tamarind seeds polysaccharide: Structure, properties, health benefits, modification and food applications. Food Hydrocoll. 2024; 155:1102222
www.personalcaremagazine.com PC
evaluation, with a standard comb))
COMBING (Manual
EASE OF
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