UPCYCLED INGREDIENTS H OH H OH
H H
59
O
OH H
H O
OH H
H Galactose OH CH2 OH H OH Xylose H H Figure 1: Structure of tamarind seed polysaccharide
The innovation: quaternized carboxymethyl tamarind (QCT) Although possessing valuable technical properties and being non-carcinogenic, non- toxic, and non-irritating,7
resulting innovative QCT enhances both usability and performance, upcycling a byproduct into a high-performance beauty solution. Notably, the polymer maintains its ready
the limited solubility
of tamarind gum in cold water typically restricts its application in personal care products. Through a systematic research, Lamberti
has investigated how chemical modifications could unlock the full potential of TSP in cosmetics. For instance, carboxymethylation of TSP can significantly improve its solubility, addressing a major drawback of this polymer.8 Furthermore, introducing a cationic moiety
increases the conditioning properties of TSP, matching market standards, making it an ideal choice also for hair care applications. Hence, the
40 30 20 10 0
-10 -20 -30
Figure 2: Comparison of wet combing performance
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biodegradability (OECD 301F) and high Natural Origin Index (>0.85, ISO16128), distinguishing itself from market standards. This breakthrough underscores Lamberti’s commitment to sustainable innovation.
Biodegradability Biodegradability is a key measure of the environmental impact of chemical ingredients, referring to their ability to be biologically broken down into simpler compounds by living organisms. Options for readily biodegradable conditioners are currently
scarce. The biodegradability of the novel QCT was assessed using the OECD 301 F method (‘Manometric Respirometry method’).9 Results confirmed the ready
biodegradability of this new tamarind derivative, which achieves over 60% degradation within 28 days and meets the ten- day window requirement. In contrast, widely- used benchmarks like Polyquaternium-10 demonstrate low biodegradation levels (according to supplier data),10
failing to meet the criteria for ready biodegradability.
Hair care performance While the sensoriality of the novel QCT makes it versatile enough to be used across various formulation types, including hair care and skin care products, this article will focus on its benefits as conditioning agent in rinse-off conditioners and shampoos. To compete effectively with market
standards, new natural or naturally-derived conditioning agents must demonstrate high performance, as the purchase of beauty products is driven by the desire for results, especially in hair care applications.11
Control Tamarind Gum Quaternized
Carboxymethyl Tamarind
Polyquatemium-10
OH H
H O
O O H
H Xylose O CH2 O
OH H
H
OH H
H O
O H H OH
H H
OH H
CH2 H O H Glucose OH H O H H
OH H
CH2 OH
O H
H OH n O
Immediate
benefits such as effective hair adhesion for satisfactory combing, as well as enhancements in hair sensory and visual qualities, are therefore highly sought after. Comparative studies between the new tamarind derivative, Polyquaternium-10, and control formulations without cationic polymers demonstrate the superior performance of QCT. This positions it as a valuable addition to environmentally responsible and high- performance personal care products.
Conditioning: wet combing Instrumental evaluations demonstrated that
September 2024 PERSONAL CARE
Wet combing work reduction (%)
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