INTERVIEW
any action that benefits human health and the environment. Ingredient reviews are always on our radar, but what we are starting to see also, are restrictions relating to classes of ingredients, two recent examples being the new law on intentionally added microplastics, and the new harmonised definition of nanomaterial. The EU regulation on microplastics is unclear
with many parts that are subject to interpretation. That’s why industry, specifically EFfCI and Cosmetics Europe, is working together for a common interpretation of the regulation. It is crucial the whole supply chain aligns on a position, otherwise, if we say black, they may say white. This would lead to chaos. We must therefore continue our path of open, scientific and constructive dialogue. Additionally, we have a new definition of
‘nanomaterial’ that will become horizontal across all market sectors – for the first time we will have the same definition in all EU legislation, although it will not all be implemented at the same time. It is possible the new definition could transform
cosmetic ingredients from non-nano to nano simply because the definition has changed. This will, of course, have an impact on the cosmetic ingredients industry. Firstly, it will be necessary to fulfil the data requirements in place to put a new ‘nanomaterial’ on the market. Secondly, and perhaps more worryingly, there
could be a mixed reaction from consumers when they read ‘nano’ on the label. Again, there is a lot of misinformation available in the public domain regarding the safety of nanomaterials. They may read the word ‘nano’ and perceive it to be something that is potentially unsafe. However, industry is working hard, generating additional data to prove the safety of nanomaterials, and advocating for their continued use.
TP: Is there anything coming down the track in terms of regulation? AM: Yes! There is a lot of regulatory change coming down the track, and very quickly. What I would like to underline from EFfCI’s point of view is that the personal care market is truly global. What happens in Europe has resonance in Japan, China, southeast Asia, Canada, USA and vice versa. The cosmetic market is composed by different rules in different countries, but the market is one. Producers of ingredients or finished products
in Europe want to sell them worldwide, so they must fulfil and respect all the rules everywhere. Yet that is not possible to do if the stakeholders do not speak the same language. So, whatever is decided in the USA, for
example, must also be acknowledged and discussed by the European industry, and it must be aligned for the US market. That’s why EFfCI is putting itself in the middle
of this by connecting with the other global stakeholders. As an example, we have open discussions with the NMPA/NIFDC, the Chinese authorities. We also talk to our sister associations in China, with Cosmetics Europe, with PCPC in the USA and so on. We must discuss things frankly and openly with the authorities and with all the different stakeholders in the different countries. That way, our members will be able to do business around the world – and that is our ultimate goal.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
“The problem with the cosmetic ingredients industry is we are much too technical to reach the heart of the consumer when it
comes to communication” Andrea Maltagliati, General Secretary, European Federation for Cosmetic Ingredients (EFfCI)
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PC September 2024 PERSONAL CARE
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