74 FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS


1.5 wt.% TS novel polymer■ 2.0 wt. % TS novel polymer■ 2.5 wt.% TS novel polymer■ 3.0wt.% TS novel polymer■


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0.0


Figure 2: Example of a sulfated hair care formulation. Clear Blue Agave Shampoo with Vitamin E Beads SH-0203A, SLES/CAPB: 14% TS (12/2). Novel ingredient: 2.7% TS


performance. Results show that it works very similarly to acrylates copolymer and other market benchmarks. As it can be seen from Figure 1, when


formulated in a traditional sulfated chassis (SLES/CAPB), this polymer increases formulation viscosity and yield with increasing polymer concentration while maintaining pristine clarity. At these viscosities it creates honey-like


flow characteristics desirable for rinse-off products. The yield value will allow for suspension of many types of insoluble ingredients with various density.


In Figure


2, we showcase an example of a hair care formulation with desirable properties and exceptional clarity. The formulation maintains excellent stability in a wide variety of conditions. The salt response was also evaluated. For


this, different concentrations of salt were tested in a traditional sulfated chassis (SLES/ CAPB). Results show that the addition of salt provides a synergistic effect helping to boost viscosity and yield value (Figure 3).


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1.5


0.5


1.0 NaCI Concentration (wt%)


1.5 wt.% TS novel polymer■ 2.0 wt. % TS novel polymer■ 2.5 wt.% TS novel polymer■ 3.0wt.% TS novel polymer■


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0.0 0.5 1.0 NaCI Concentration (wt%)


Figure 3: Viscosity and yield value properties within a sulfated chassis. Traditional sulfated chassis composition: 11.2% active Sodium Laureth Sulfate, 2.3% TS Cocamidopropyl Betaine at pH 6.5. *Brookfield viscosity at 20 rpm (mPa·s)


Performance in sulfate-free chassis This novel ingredient was tested in several challenging sulfate-free surfactant formulations (glutamate, sulfonate, taurate, isethionate, sulfosuccinate). Throughout the formulation screening, the polymer exhibited very good performance in yield value, viscosity and clarity at a neutral pH. In one example, this novel ingredient was evaluated in a sulfonate/CAPB chassis


Viscosity■ Turbidity■ Yield value ■ 2 29 2.0 114 2.5 Polymer Concentration (%TS)


Figure 4: Viscosity, yield value and turbidity within a sulfate-free chassis. Sulfate-free chassis composition: 6.0% active Alpha Olefin Sulfonate, 4.0% TS Cocamidopropyl Betaine at pH 6.5. *Brookfield viscosity at 20 rpm (mPa·s)


PERSONAL CARE September 2024 268 3.0 702 3.5


Figure 5: Example of a sulfate-free hair care formulation, Clear Antipollution Sulfate-Free Shampoo with Charcoal Beads SH-0202. Sulfate-free surfactant blend: 12.1% TS (9.6/2.5). Novel ingredient: 2.6% TS


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18 16 14 12 10 8 6


(pH 6.5) and results showed increasing the concentration of the polymer from 1.5% TS to 3.5% TS improves formulation viscosity and yield value while preserving clarity (Figure 4). In Figure 5, this sulfate-free hair care


formulation highlights the benefits of this novel ingredient offering a viscous formulation with smooth flow out of container as well as excellent clarity with suspension of particles to create a pleasing aesthetic. Thanks to this novel


1.5 2.0


1.5


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Viscosity* (mPa·S)


Viscosity* (mPa·S) Yield Value (dyness/cm2 )


Turbidity (NTU)


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