HAIR CARE 97
reparative γ-docosalactone as an active ingredient. γ-docosalactone has already been used widely in hair care applications, and after application to hair and heating with a hair dryer, the compound binds to amines present within hair and repels water which is thought to contribute to hair lustrousness. Furthermore, in order to improve the
permeability of HF in hair, HF has been combined with surfactants to form a bicontinuous structure such that it creates nanoemulsions when dissolved in water. Upon preparation of a 2% HF solution in water, we observed nanoemulsion formulation using transmission electron microscopy (TEM). As shown in Figure 3, the 2% HF solution formed microscopic particles visible under TEM, and stirring in water alone induces formation of nanoemulsions. During manufacturing, this would mean that cold process can be used to improve efficiency.
HF is a combination of the antioxidant
fullerene, hair reparative γ-docosalactone, and nonionic surfactant, polyols, and oil, and has been available for sale since 2017 as a premixed fullerene ingredient for hair care.
Penetration in hair To observe nanoemulsion penetration in hair, we prepared a test solution of 1% HF nanoemulsions containing 1 ppm of Nile Red, a hydrophobic fluorescent dye. After perm processing, we incubated damaged hair produced using commercially sold two reagent bleach in the test solution for 25˚C for five minutes, being careful not to dip the ends. Afterwards, excess test solution was wiped off and was dried with a hair dryer. A microtome was used to create cross sections of hair (width of 10 µm) and observed with a fluorescent microscope as shown in Figure 4. In comparison to hair treated with Nile Red alone, that treated with Nile Red containing 1% HF solution shows ample red fluorescence signal in the interior of the hair, demonstrating that the HF solution nanoemulsion penetrates hair readily.
Protection of hair from UV irradiation
While hair exposed to UV radiation results Control Water
Figure 3: The nanoemulsion containing fullerene can be obtained by adding water to Hair Shiny Fullerene and stirring.
Control (only Nile red) 1% Hair Shiny Fullerene® + Nile red
Figure 4: Penetration of nanoemulsion (1% Hair Shiny Fullerene) into hair.
in damaged cuticles, we tested whether HF solution treatment results in alleviation of cuticle damage. Human black hair was shampooed twice and dried with a hair dryer prior to spraying with either water or 5% HF solution and further drying with a hair dryer. This process was repeated five times. The hair strands were then pasted onto aluminum foil, and after a quick wash with water, they were irradiated with UVB
5% Hair Shiny Fullerene® (18J/cm2
). Several hair strands were then immobilised on the sampling stage and were visualised with a scanning electron microscope at 600x magnification. Scanning electron microscope images of hair strands post-UV irradiation is shown in Figure 5. Upon observation of the condition of the hair surface, hair strands treated with water alone and irradiated with UV showed cuticle peeling, whereas those treated with 5% HF solution exhibited minimal damage. These results suggest that HF can suppress UV-induced hair damage.
Figure 5: Electron micrograph of hair surface after UV irradiation. November 2018
Hair lustre restoration and improvement experiments In order to validate the reparative effects of γ-docosalactone included in HF, we performed hair lustre improvement experiments with damaged hair. We sprayed damaged hair bundles (5 g, 25 cm) produced with commercially sold two reagent bleach solution with 1.5g of 1% HF
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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