SILICONES 79


7 and Trideceth-5, delivering a product does not contain polyether. The active silicone content in the microemulsion is approximately 15%. Meanwhile microemulsion B2 was developed with shine boosting Phenyl Trimethicone and, cationic polymer, Silicone Quaternium-17 together with emulsifier of Laureth-4 and Laureth-23. This system presents itself as a preservative and polyether free product. The active silicone content in the microemulsion is approximately 17%. These new silicone microemulsions are simple to incorporate into hair care products with cold, low shear blending, delivering a good sensory effect, superior conditioning, plus excellent wet and dry combing properties. They are ideal for use in clear, leave-in and rinse-out products performing with positive effect on all hair types. Various tests were conducted to demonstrate the performance benefit of such microemulsions.


Performance testing Combing force measurement These studies show the significant conditioning performance benefits of silicone mircroemulsion A (INCI: Silicone Quaternium-17 (and) Trideceth-7 (and) Trideceth-5) and silicone microemulsion B (INCI: Phenyl Trimethicone (and) Laureth-4 (and) Silicone Quaternium-17 (and) Laureth- 23) based on ease of combing in wet and dry conditions. Combing force measurement was taken before and after application of shampoo (Formula 1) and conditioner (Formula 2) using MTT175 tensile tester (Dia-Stron). Tests were conducted on virgin brown Caucasian hair tresses which had been pre-double bleached to ensure chemical substances were removed from hair before measurements. Results of combing force measurements are shown in Figure 2. Both microemulsion A and


microemulsion B significantly reduced the nWet Combing n Dry Combing


45.00 40.00 35.00 30.00 25.00 20.00 15.00 10.00 5.00 0.00


BRB 5446 BRB 5834 Figure 2: Ease of combing of wet & dry condition with Dia-Stron tensile tester.


combing forces in wet and dry conditions after shampoo and conditioner application, compared to the control.


% Force reduction = TCW (untreated) – TCW (treated)


TCW (untreated) TCW = Total Combing Work (in joules)


Thermal protection Thermal hair damage easily results from the frequent use of heat-based styling equipment, including hair blow-dryers, straightening irons and curling tongues. These heat treatments are conducted around 180-230°C, sufficient to thermally damage hair’s keratinous structure. If the use of hot styling tools is done improperly, the moisture will evaporate from hair, destroying all its natural structure and chemistry. The oil and protein basis will be damaged leading to dull, brittle, dry and fragile hair. Therefore, thermal protection is essential in order to prevent heat damage. Specialty silicones can be used to protect hair from heat due to its film forming properties and low thermal conductivity.


I


II


III


IV


After 15 Cycles of washing: I: Colour reference (not treated) II: Control (no silicone)


III: Silicone Quaternium-17 (and) Trideceth-7 (and) Trideceth-5 IV: Non-silicone ingredients


Figure 4: Colour protection with silicone mircoemulsion.


III


Figure 3: Thermal protection with flat iron test. Control


microemulsion A Figure 5: Improve hair shininess with silicone microemulsion. November 2018 PERSONAL CARE EUROPE 2% silicone


Combing Force Reductions (%)


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