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SUN CARE 55


Formulation 2: Sunscreen Formula without using AvoBrite: Phase Tradename


A HallBrite EZ-FLO TDX NO HallBrite BHB


HallStar GMS SE/AS HallStar GMS PURE HallStar TA-1618 Olivem 800 Tween 60


SP-10 Kobo SP-10 Kobo


B INCI Name (INN/SAN) (Other Information)


Butyloctyl Salicylate, Titannium Dioxide(nano), Triceteareth-4 Phosphate, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Silica


Control polymer Butyloctyl Salicylate


Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate Glyceryl Stearate Cetearyl Alcohol


Ceteareth-6 Olivate Polysorbate 60


Nylon 12 Nylon 12


GalSORB Avobenzone Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone] EDTA-2Na D.I-Water


Disodium EDTA Water


C


Olivem 1000 Xanthan gum


D


E F


1,3-Butylene glycol 1,2-Hexanediol Trienthanolamine Water D.I. Parsol HS DC 345


Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate Xanthan gum


1,3-Butylene glycol 1,2-Hexanediol Trienthanolamine Water D.I.


Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane


modifying the electronic environment of the UV filter molecules so that they can return to their ground states more effectively. Butyloctyl Salicylate, the prototypal Hallstar product HallBrite®


BHB, works by this


mechanism. The second mechanism involves the photostabiliser accepting the excited state energy from the UV filter molecule and then quickly releasing this energy via non-radiative decays. We will


use our most recently developed photostabiliser product, Acrylates Copolymer (AvoBriteTM


% Wt 6.00


6.00 6.00 2.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 0.50 1.00 1.50 3.00 0.05


22.65 3.00 0.3


3.00 1.00 3.00


30.00 6.00 2.00


Methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM)) is one of the most effective UVA filters and the only one accepted in the global market. Unfortunately, it is unstable when exposed to UVR. The photodegradation reaction of the BMDBM molecule has been thoroughly studied by Hallstar and others; these studies are widely available in the open literature, so we will not discuss the reaction further. As the desire for UVA protection grows, stabilising avobenzone provides a universal approach to improving UVA protection performance. While designing our newest


), as an example to


illustrate the design principles and effectiveness of this technology.


Protecting UV filters against photodecomposition: increase filter efficiency Avobenzone (INCI: Butyl


UV spectrum and SPF/PFA comparison of sunscreen films from the above formulation after 10 minutes simulated sunlight irradiation (equals to about 1 hour of middle day sun exposure in the Mediterranean region)


UV spectrum comparison of sunscreen films with and without using AvoBrite


1.4 1.2 1


0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0


290 302 314 326 338 350 362 374 386 398 Figure 3: Sunscreen formulation with and without using AvoBrite and their performance comparison. November 2018 PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


n Before UV irradiation n After UV irradiation


120 100 80 60 40 20 0


Sunscreen using AvoBriteTM


Sunscreen without using AvoBriteTM


SPF and PFA performance measured after irradiation of the two sunscreen formulas


SPF and PFA Comparison


photostabilisers, Hallstar focused on the triplet excited states of avobenzone. First, we measured the triplet excited state energy levels of both the enol and keto structures of avobenzone. Next, we designed many possible quencher structures with the right energy levels, so they could accept the excited state energy from avobenzone. Several representative structures are included in Figure 1 with the triplet state energies of avobenzone. We then used laser flash photolysis to accurately measure the quenching rate constant of avobenzone by the different quencher structures. Representative results and structures are shown in Figure 2. Acrylates Copolymer ingredient incorporates the most effective quencher structures from this study. The effectiveness of Acrylates Copolymer was demonstrated in a sunscreen formulation (Figure 3). By making avobenzone more stable and efficient, Acrylates Copolymer provides formulations with much better sun protection performance.


Protecting UV filters against ROS generation: increase safety and effectiveness


Semiconducting metal oxides such as TiO2 n SPF n PFA


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