94 HAIR CARE 4
Wildfire Before washing
3
Wildfire 5x wash–without Polyquaternium–113
Wildfire 5x wash–with Polyquaternium–113
2
1
0 400 450 500 550 600 650
Light wavelength (nm) nWildfire-t0 n t5W-CTL n t5W-CHR
Figure 7: Hyperspectral absorption spectra of hair tress dyed with Manic Panic Semi-Permanent Hair Color Cream – Wildfire, and washed 5 times.
conditioner system with (right) and without (left) Polyquaternium-113. From the hyperspectral images, colouration pigment absorbances could be extracted by subtracting the spectrum of the basetone hair. Pigment absorbances were followed over repeated washes to show difference in colour loss (see Figure 2). From the images and pigment absorption spectra, our analysis shows that the side treated with Polyquaternium-113 clearly retained more color than without Polyquaternium-113. The right side of the mannequin clearly shows more red colour than the left side. This is confirmed by the higher amplitude of the absorbance bands for the right side indicating more colour pigments present. A spectrum of the uncoloured base hair (level 8) is shown for comparison. Similar behaviour in colour retention was observed for brown and purple hair colours, as shown in Figure 3 and 5 respectively. Again, the pigment absorption bands extracted from the hyperspectral imaging showed higher light absorption for the side
3
2.5 2
1.5 1
0.5 0
400 500 600
Light wavelength (nm) n Tanzanite-t0 n t5W-CTL n t5W-CHR
Figure 9: Hyperspectral absorption spectra of hair tress dyed with ion Color Brilliance Gemstone Brights semi-permanent hair color - Tanzanite, and washed 5 times.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Figure 10: Visia-CR image of hair tress dyed with ion Color Brilliance Gemstones Brights Tanzanite.
November 2018 700
Figure 8: Visia CR image of hair tresses dyed with Manic Panic Semi- permanent hair colour cream – Wildfire.
washed with Polyquaternium-113 vs. the side washed without Polyquaternium-113. Semi-permanent colours are designed to wash off the hair very easily, usually after a few shampoos. These hair colour shades are designed to give vivid, boldly intense results. They work best on pre-bleached natural or colour-treated hair. As illustrated in Figures 7 – 10, in semi-permanent colours, hair tresses that were treated with Polyquaternium-113 containing shampoo and conditioner regimen retained more color than without tresses treated with regimen that did not contain Polyquaternium-113. Two shades (red and dark blue) are shown. In both cases, hyperspectral imaging was performed before and after 5 washes and the light absorption spectra was extracted. Both shades showed more light absorption (colour pigments) in the tresses treated with a shampoo and conditioner regimen containing Polyquaternium-113. We also observed this difference in the images of the hair tresses. Interestingly, light
Tanzanite Before washing
absorption covers a wide range from 400 to 570 nm, likely resulting from a blend of several pigments. The colour loss observed after 5 washes showed that pigment loss occurred mainly in the blue light range (400 – 500 nm) of the spectrum, likely related to a specific pigment.
Conclusion
Optical imaging methods are powerful tools to quantify and demonstrate the level of colour protection afforded by hair care products, and the results of these methods correlate well with consumer perception. The complementary Visia-CR imaging system is a very useful tool to visualise colour protection. The latest test results described above demonstrate the efficacy of ChromoHance 113 polymer with respect to both oxidative (permanent) and semi- permanent hair colours and further verifies the effectiveness of ChromoHance 113 polymer as an ideal solution to help retain hair colour, maintain vibrancy and guard against fading and washout.
PC
Tanzanite 5x wash–without Polyquaternium–113
Tanzanite 5x wash–with Polyquaternium–113
700
Light absorbance
Light absorbance
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