78 SILICONES
High performing silicone microemulsion in hair care
n Tow Kuan Lem, Clara Gil Navarro, Aylin Bozoğlu - BRB Silicones, The Netherlands
Today’s hair care industry is a highly competitive and segmented market place wherein formulators need to respond to a range of hair types, cultures, regions and ethnicities. A savvy youth market, emerging economies and an expanding group of sophisticated consumers need to be accommodated. To meet these requirements, the industry must continuously develop creative solutions. Specialty silicones are able to create hair care products that help to strengthen and protect hair from environmental stress, colour fade, heat associated damage and grooming effects. Elsewhere they are able to add volume, control hair frizziness and help repair split ends. Silicone plays a key role, whether in conditioners, shampoo, colourant or styling products.
Individualism in hair care The concept of customised hair care
CH3 R CH3
Si O Si O CH3
R )3 OCH2 X
where R represents the following two groups: -(CH2
CHCH2 OH
-(CH2 OCH2 )3
CHCH2 OH
In which R is COCO moiety. Molecular weight is about 10,000
Figure 1: Molecular structure of Silicone Quaternium-17. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
products is gaining popularity as customers intend to portray their individuality and handle specific grooming challenges based on hair type and its desired style and condition.
Specialty silicones can provide specific solutions for individual needs based on customer’s specific hair care requirements. For example, hair care products are extensively designed for fine, dry, kinky or curly hair, damaged or coloured hair, and styles from long to short, voluminous to sleek. The range of conditioning levels is from intense to light with alternatives for heat and colour protection as well as frizz control.
Specialty silicone for hair moisturisation UV radiation, curling irons, and chemicals from colouring, perming and straightening – even frictional forces from daily combing and styling – all conspire to hair damage. In the case of coloured hair, regular washing
H3 C
Si O CH3
OH
CH3 N+
CH3
C3H6 NH COR’ CH3
COO- Y CH3
Si R CH3
can lead to discolouration. Ageing along with the changes of hormone and sebum production can lead to dry, dull and grey hair. Hair moisturisation is one of the most popular claims in hair care products nowadays. In fact, silicone does not provide moisturisation to hair. But, when silicone is added to leave on or rinse off hair products, it gives the slippery texture that makes your hair feel it is being moisturised. The definition of hair moisturisation is different from skin moisturisation. Hair moisturisation is expressed by hair that is easy to comb when wet as well as dry, has healthy-looking shine, and fibres that align more easily to provide a sleek look. With the aid of specialty silicones, it is possible to formulate hair care products that can improve hair appearance. For example, incorporating specialty silicones in shampoos and conditioners can improve shine and help maintain the colour-treated hair.
Silicone Quaternium-17 in microemulsion
High molecular weight silicones are well known for hair conditioning and protecting properties but remain a challenge to formulate successfully due to their hydrophobic nature and high viscosity. However, when delivered as emulsion, small droplets of the highest molecular weight silicone can be easily incorporated into hair care formulations. This is more convenient and saves on costs for manufacturing time (shorter) and manufacturing cost (energy and time saving) including productivity as well.
The development of thermodynamically stable microemulsions with very fine silicone droplets is very beneficial to formulators. As the droplets are smaller than the wavelength of visible light, they are usefully transparent. This approach, based on such fine droplets was used to develop a microemulsion based on high molecular weight Silicone Quaternium-17 (Fig 1).
The microemulsion A1 was then
processed by emulsifying Silicone Quaternium-17 with emulsifier of Trideceth-
November 2018
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