66 SUN CARE
Free radicals induce Acne aestivalisin sensitive subjects
n Katinka Jung, Thomas Herrling - Gematria Test Lab, Germany Ulrike Heinrich, Hagen Tronnier – DermaTronnier, Germany Marcel Schnyder, Bernd Herzog – BASF, Germany
Solar radiation does not just cause harm to the skin, it can also affect the efficacy of cosmetic products and sunscreens. When applied to the skin, a product is exposed to environmental factors such as sunlight and oxygen, which can quickly and easily start the processes of oxidation and rancidity. Some active ingredients in a cosmetic formulation may trigger radical chain reactions or act as a catalyser: l Some organic UV filters; l Photocatalytically active TiO2 (uncoated)
l Perfume components containing hydroperoxides
l Unsaturated lipids of natural oils Although these free radicals should not be harmful for consumers, they can lead
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Abstract
The market segment of sun care products to protect sensitive skin is growing. There is evidence that peroxide free radicals derived from certain formulation components are involved in inducing allergic skin reactions. These UV-induced free radicals can be assessed by an ESR-based method called Radical Potential (RP), by exposing formulations to UV radiation. BASF experts found a correlation between the amount of UV-inducible peroxides in sunscreen products and the clinical symptoms of Acne aestivalis and, potentially, other types of skin reactions. Their findings offer a rationale for developing low-risk sunscreen formulations by selecting suitable filter systems combined with in-situ ESR analysis.
to a deterioration of the quality of the formulation. Furthermore, the presence of hydroxyperoxides and other peroxide free radicals is known to induce skin reactions.1
A direct correlation between
radical generation in sunscreen films and skin reactions has been confirmed. That is why the market segment of sun care products for sensitive skin protection is growing.
November 2018
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