32 ANTI-POLLUTION Self-assessment of volunteers was also
performed and, as shown in Figure 5. S. chinensis presents a satisfaction of most subjects allowing a less grey and less shiny skin, a luminous and unified complexion, an hydrated and smoother skin and less pores.
Discussion
Skin is inevitably exposed to environmental pollutants inducing oxidative stress which accelerate skin ageing and skin inflammation. The use of natural products in maintaining skin integrity and health against the deleterious effect of pollutants arouse great interest. Schisandra chinensis is a traditional Chinese herbal medicine that has been used for treatment in Asia for thousands of years. It is known to possess anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, through high concentrations of lignans.6
Thus, the aim of
our study was 1) to better understand the cellular mechanisms induced by pollution in keratinocytes and the effect of S. chinensis extract to fight protects the skin against ROS induced by urban dust, 2) to evaluated the effect of S. chinensis on skin hydration, homogeneity, radiance and luminosity in Chengdu (China) using an in vivo approach. We noted the protective effect of S. chinensis extract, which increased DJ-1 protein levels, Nrf2 expression and decreased AhR and NF- kB in cytoplasm even if the cells are under stress pollution. These results are in line with those of Lin et al.7
who recently reported that
Schisandrin B, an active ingredient extracted from S. chinensis, blocked the activation of NF-κB, and activated Nrf2, which resulted in the inhibition of inflammatory response. As previously mentioned, Nrf2 is an important transcription factor that plays a critical role in protecting cells from oxidative stress. Moreover, the increase of DJ-1 noted in our study after co-treatment of urban dust and S. chinensis extract is an important result, DJ-1 quenching the activity of ROS and protecting mitochondrial function.8
It is also
known that DJ-1 promotes Nrf2 binding to antioxidant response elements by which Nrf2 can regulate the expression of several endogenous antioxidative enzymes and reduce ROS production to protect mitochondria and can also respond to oxidative stress. We also noted that urban dust activates the AhR pathway (Fig 3), which is required for biotransformation of pollutants through the different phases of detoxification. It should however be noted that the first enzymes of the detoxification process can produce intermediate metabolites even more reactive than their exogenous precursors.9 These results are in agreement with the fact that urban dust induces expression of genes of the phase I in our study. It is therefore of primary importance for the cell to achieve complete transformation and detoxification of such metabolites through the expression of genes coding for phase II enzymes. Our
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE less shiny less grey
60 50 40 30 20 10 0
n Placebo n Urbalys
unified
smoother
luminous
less pores
hydrated
Figure 5: Self-assessment of volunteers: percentage of volunteers who fully agree with statements.
observations confirm that urban dust activates the drug metabolism response and especially the phase I dependent on the CYP450 family members as well as other enzymes such as MMP-1 and MMP-9. Activation of the MMP-1 gene has been shown to be critically linked to mitogen- activated protein kinase activation. Co-treatment of urban dust and S. chinensis extract induced a significant decreased of AhR expression (Fig 3), as compared to urban dust alone. Finally, the capability of S. chinensis extract to protect from prolonged pollution aggression was reflected by the fact that it improves hydration, protects skin homogeneity, increases skin radiance and luminosity and attenuates skin spot intensity after 21 days of pollution exposition.
Conclusion
Using a translational approach and a standardised urban dust, we noted that treatment with S. chinensis extract attenuated the urban dust-induced oxidative stress and that the protective mechanism was associated, at least in part, with the modulation of the Nrf2 and AhR pathways and the activation of DJ-1. Moreover, the clinical study shows that application of S. chinensis extract, named Urbalys®
beneficial effects on skin health. Urbalys counteracts deleterious effects of pollution by recovering the physiological balance of the skin.
References 1 Puri P, Nandar SK, Kathuria S, Ramesh V. Effects
of air pollution on the skin: A review. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol 2017; 83: 415-423.
2 Kampa M, Castanas E. Human health effects of air pollution. Environ Pollut 2008; 151: 362- 367.
3 Im JY, Lee KW, Woo JM, Junn E, Mouradian MM. DJ-1 induces thioredoxin 1 expression through the Nrf2 pathway. Hum Mol Genet 2012; 21: 3013-3024.
4 Matsumoto Y, Ide F, Kishi R, Akutagawa T, Sakai S, Nakamura M, et al. Aryl hydrocarbon receptor plays a significant role in mediating airborne particulate induced carcinogenesis in mice. Environ. Sci. Technology 2007; 41: 3775-3780.
5 Kang OH, Chae H-S, Choi J-H, et al. Effects of the Schisandra fructus water extract on cytokine release from a human mast cell line. J Med Food 2006; 9: 480-486.
6 Lu H, Liu GT. Anti-oxidant activity dibenzocyclooctene lingans isolated from Schisandraceae. Planta Med 1992; 58: 311–313.
7 Lin Q, Qin X, Shi M, et al. Schisandrin B inhibits LPS-Induced inflammatory response in human umbilical vein endothelial cells by activating Nrf2. Int Immunopharmacol 2017; 49:142-147.
during 21 days is sufficient to have PC
8 Hiroyoshi A, Takahashi-Niki K, Kato I, et al. Neuroprotective function of DJ-1 in Parkinson’s disease. Oxid Med Cell Longev 2013; 683920.
9 Xu C, Li CY, Kong AN. Induction of phase I, II and III drug metabolism/transport by xenobiotics. Arch Pharm Res 2005; 28: 249-268.
November 2018
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