Dermis
Epidermis
18 ANTI-POLLUTION
* p<0.0001 versus non-treated zone ** p<0.0001 versus non-treated zone and placebo
45 40 35 * 30 **
1. Polysaccharide complex: Film forming / enhances skin barrier
1. Po
2. Cress sprout extract: Activates detoxification / antioxidant enzymes
25 Film
2. Cre Act
3. Art Pro
20 Placebo 2% Depolluphane
Figure 6: Decrease in quantity of particulate matter which still adheres to the skin after rinsing.
assessed via RT-qPCR. Results showed that the antioxidant enzyme NQO1 was moderately stimulated at 0.05% and strongly stimulated at 0.2 % cress sprout extract (Fig 3). HO-1 and TrxR1 were both stimulated strongly, even at the lower cress sprout extract concentration.
A cress sprout extract protects against protein damage caused by pollution Particulate matter from air pollution can enter the skin and cause oxidisation reactions within the skin through the formation of free radicals. These oxidisation reactions damage important cell components such as proteins and lipids, and thus contribute to inflammation and skin ageing. The cress sprout extract which was shown as an efficient inducer of antioxidant enzymes could protect against pollution-induced protein damage. In order to test the protective effect of
the cress sprout extract against particulate matter, normal human dermal fibroblasts were either pretreated or not (PM control) with 1% cress sprout extract for a period of 7 hours. Subsequently, the medium containing the cress sprout extract was removed and the assay medium was exchanged to a medium that contained particulate matter (PM10
-like) to mimic
pollution stress. Protein carbonylation was measured as a marker for oxidative protein damage caused by pollution (Fig 4). N- Acetylcysteine served as a positive control. A significant reduction in carbonylated proteins in cells treated with 1% cress sprout extract was observed which showed that the extract protects cells from free radicals caused by particulate matter.
A smart polysaccharide complex to shield the skin from pollution particles The cress spout extract was sprayed on a
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
3. Artichoke extract: Protection of DNA from epigenetic changes
Figure 7: Triple action against pollution.
carrier that is based on a mixture of different polysaccharides [Depolluphane (INCI: Lepidium sativum sprout extract and Pullulan and Sodium Carboxymethyl Betaglucan and Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum and Maltodextrin and Aqua)]. This smart polysaccharide complex performs various functions on the skin: l The film-forming capability of the complex shields the skin from unwanted exposure to pollutants
l The biochemical activity of the complex enhances the skin’s immune function and helps to strengthen the skin barrier. The shielding effect of the polysaccharide complex with the encapsulated cress sprout extract was tested in a clinical study. Twenty-one women aged between 20 and 44 years (average age: 31 years) received a standardised single application of a cream containing 2% complex and the corresponding placebo cream in distinct 4x4 cm zones on their forearms. 20 minutes after product application, microparticles that modelled atmospheric pollution (1 µm on average) were applied to the forearm in the 2% complex and placebo-treated zones as well as to a non-treated zone as a negative control. The rinsing of the forearm was performed by spreading a standardised amount of water on the forearm and wiping each zone three times with a dry cotton pad. Pictures of the defined zones were taken with a Hirox video microscope before and after the rinsing of the microparticles. Representative images of the average
effect showed that the microparticles were more efficiently rinsed off in the zones that were pretreated with 2% complex (Fig 5). The pictures were also quantified by image analysis. The surface (in pixels) covered by the microparticles was measured before and after rinsing, and compared to the non-treated
zone. Results showed that a single treatment with 2 % complex resulted in a significantly more efficient removal of microparticles compared to the non-treated zone as well as the placebo treated zone (Fig 6).
Conclusion For complete protection of the skin against pollution, a cosmetic ingredient was developed based on two plant extracts, cress sprouts and artichoke which were encapsulated into a smart polysaccharide complex [Depolluphane EpiPlus (INCI: Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract and Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract and Pullulan and Sodium Carboxymethyl Betaglucan and Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum and Maltodextrin and Aqua)]. This new cosmetic active protects the skin from urban pollution in a threefold manner over the course of three distinct timelines (Fig 7): l Immediately shields the skin against particulate matter
l In the short-term fortifies the skin’s own defense mechanism by activating detoxification enzymes
l In the long-term protects the skin by preventing epigenetic changes that are caused by pollution.
References 1 Breton CV and Marutani AN. Air Pollution and
Epigenetics: Recent Findings. Curr Envir Health Rpt 2014; 1: 35-45 (2014)
2 Ding R, Jin Y, Liu X, Zhu Z, Zhang Y, Wang T, Xu Y. H3K9 acetylation change patterns in rats after exposure to traffic-related air pollution. Environmental Toxicology and Pharmacology 2016; 42: 170-175
3 Cantone L, Nordio F, Hou L, et al. Inhalable Metal-rich Air Particles and Histone H3K4 Dimethylation and H3K9 Acetylation in a Cross- sectional Study of Steel Workers. Environmental Health Perspectives 2011; 119: 964-969.
November 2018
Decrease in particle quantitiy after rinsing compared to non-treated zone in %
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