NATURALS 41 AMBITION / FLEXIBILITY / PASSION / INNOVATION
Figure 4: Schematic representation of the enzymatic hydrolysis process.
degradation of intercorneocyte protein attachments. Moreover, the chestnut seed extract boosts the activity of enzymes which have not yet been studied in cosmetics: PADs. These enzymes play a role in the impermeability of the skin barrier function by boosting the production of the intercorneocyte cement and by regulating the desquamation process. They also increase the natural hydration of the epidermis.5
Boosting their activity is a
strategy of choice for the development of a skin care product aiming at maintaining the homeostasis of the barrier function. Tested at 0.25% on 3D reconstructed epidermis (Silabskin®
RE), the chestnut
seed extract significantly increases the quantity of deiminated proteins (+70%), thereby reflecting the increased enzymatic activity of PADs. Tested in vivo on Caucasian and Asian volunteers whose skin was subjected to aggression, the chestnut seed extract significantly reduces transepidermal water loss by 17% and 35.5% respectively, after 14 days of twice daily application.
Conclusion
Recoverine is an eco-designed, sustainable and eco-responsible active ingredient concentrating the active molecules of
chestnuts, developed to provide comfort and balance to dry skin. For more than 30 years, Silab has been capitalising on the mastery of nature, with no compromise on efficacy and safety, allowing today to have a wide range of tools for the design of innovative, safe and natural cosmetic active ingredients.
PC
References 1. Charest JL, Jennings JM, King WP, et al. Cadherin-Mediated Cell–Cell Contact Regulates Keratinocyte Differentiation, J Invest Dermatol. 2009;129:564–572.
2. Broxterman SE, Schols HA. Interactions between pectin and cellulose in primary plant cell walls, Carbohydr Polym. 2018;192:263–272.
3. Matsui T, Amagai M. Dissecting the formation, structure and barrier function of the stratum corneum, Int Immunol. 2015;27:269–280.
4. Feingold KR. The outer frontier: the importance of lipid metabolism in the skin, J Lipid Res. 2009;50 Suppl:S417-22.
5. Cau L, Pendaries V, Lhuillier E, et al. Lowering relative humidity level increases epidermal protein deimination and drives human filaggrin breakdown, J Dermatol Sci. 2017;86:106–113.
Note: Figure 1a is available under the Creative Commons Attributions-ShareAlike License. For more information please refer to:
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/”
The power of smart ingredients
www.brb-international.com Figure 5: Mechanisms regulating cohesion and desquamation. November 2018 PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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