ANTI-POLLUTION 23
Red vine leaves offer anti- pollution skin protection
n E. Coste, P. Prouheze, M. Mollet, P.-G. Markioli, E. Lomonte, L. Valenti, J.-F. Nicolaÿ – Exsymol, Monaco
Our modern societies produce a lot of pollution, and although there are more and more people and governments willing to decrease their emissions, people are still heavily exposed to pollutants. In fact, not only are we exposed to outdoor pollution (cigarette smoke, exhaust, ozone, sun radiations…), we are also exposed to indoor pollution (house dust often rich in heavy metals, artificial light…). Pollution combines with other external factors as sun light (Ultraviolet A and B, Infra Red…), or lifestyle (smoking, nutrition, psychological stress…) to accelerate skin ageing. This so-called ‘extrinsic ageing’1
adds to chronological
ageing (driven by genetically programmed intrinsic mechanisms) to alter skin appearance (wrinkles, laxity, puffy eyes, …). It is an unfortunate finding that intrinsic ageing potentiates the effects of extrinsic factors such as pollution. With ageing, skin barrier function declines (pollutants access more easily the skin’s living layers), and defence systems (antioxidation,
detoxification) are weakened. Therefore, a good strategy to oppose pollution effects is to fight pollutants while enhancing skin defence systems.
Aim
In this article, we will present the anti- pollution properties of Redivine (INCI name: Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Leaf Extract), an active ingredient derived from red vine leaves. This COSMOS-approved extract is rich in antioxidant polyphenols (flavonoids), and is thus capable of fighting directly against pollutants (most of them induce an oxidative stress). It is also able to stimulate a particular defence mechanism, the ‘Nrf2 system’ which controls the production of multiple antioxidant and detoxifying mediators. We will present details of defence mechanisms involving Nrf2.
Pollutants chosen for this study: Environmental pollution covers a very wide range of harmful molecules (volatiles
organic compounds (VOC), ozone, nitric oxides, …). Benzo[a]pyrene (BaP), was chosen for this study as it is an extremely common and diffuse environmental pollutant that belongs to the polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) family. It is a byproduct of combustion, and is thus found in wood, gasoline and tobacco exhausts. It is one of the most harmful constituents of diesel- derived particulate matters. BaP is classified as carcinogenic and was reported to cause inflammation and immunosuppression.2 Indoor pollution is a rather overlooked
hazard since most people believe their home is unpolluted (safe). In reality, we are often exposed to solvents (paint, glue, makeup…), to carbon monoxide and particulates from stoves etc. Furthermore, while we tend to close windows in order to protect ourselves from outdoor pollution, pollutants such as heavy metals (lead, etc.) accumulate in house dust. A standardised house dust with a normalised content in lead was thus chosen.
Figure 1: Xenobiotic response element XRE. Inside of the cytoplasm, BaP is specifically bound by the transcription factor AhR (1) that will translocate into the nucleus and bind DNA (2) in order to stimulate CYP1A1 production (3). This protein will in turn bind BaP (4) and metabolise it (5), hence generating free radicals (6).
Novemberr 2018
Figure 2: Antioxidant response element (ARE). Nrf2 is a transcription factor capable of sensing free radicals. In the case of an oxidative stress, Nrf2 (which is usually degraded because of Keap1) is stabilised and is translocated in the nucleus where it stimulates anti-oxidant synthesis. These neosynthesised antioxidants will reduce the oxidative stress.
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