SUN PROTECTION 61
Figure 1: Evolution of sunscreens.
ever more digitally savvy, able to use various apps designed to rank the safety of certain ingredients to help them decide on the ‘cleanliness’ of personal care products. The ‘Think Dirty’ app was developed to empower and inform the consumer to allow them to make decisions about the products they purchase with a red, amber, green rating on ingredients listed. ‘Cosmetifique’ helps the consumer to see what ingredients are in the cosmetics they buy, pinpointing from their point of view what is good, what is acceptable and what is not, allowing beauty choices, based on personal preferences to be made. Finally, the EWG’s ‘Healthy Living’ app used for food, home and personal care ingredients allows the consumer to use their app to scan a product, review its rating and make healthy choices.
Clean sunscreens
Although over the counter sunscreens were not created until the twentieth century, history shows us that solar protection has always been a human priority. Sun- worshipping cultures could be found in every corner of the world from Ancient Egypt and Greece to the Aztecs of Mexico. While these ancient civilisations celebrated the power of the sun, they were also aware that they needed to protect their skin. Translations of scrolls and writing on tomb walls reveal that the Ancient Egyptians had an advanced knowledge of skin care and used ingredients including aloe, natural oils derived from flowers, nuts, fruits and seeds as well as powder particulates, similar to natural titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.
November 2018
The diagram in Figure 1 shows the evolution of sunscreens throughout the twentieth century, showing a move from the use of ‘toxic chemicals’ including oxybenzone and homosalate in early products, to the mineral sun protection favoured by the Ancient Egyptians.
Clean sunscreens and the ‘chemical- free’ movement With more stringent regulations surrounding sunscreens being implemented globally and Hawaii’s proposed ban on any sun care products containing oxybenzone and octinoxate, the trend for 100% mineral sun protection is gathering momentum. The ‘chemical-free’ movement is also gaining more and more credibility, due to influential groups, such as the EWG, a non-profit, consumer facing organisation that aims to highlight the toxicity and potential health risks of products, giving them ‘safety’ ratings. Although based in the US, the EWG also has far-reaching influence in other countries such as South Korea and India. The number of mineral-only sunscreens listed in the EWG’s 2018 Sunscreen Guide is 41%, which has more than doubled in the past ten years, with this figure set to rise. Driven by perceived health and
environmental concerns, consumers are demanding ‘chemical-free’ products, believing that traditional chemical sunscreens are toxic and irritate the skin leading to inflammation, one of the primary causes of skin ageing. Consumers are inundated with information about the dangers of using certain chemical ingredients and are
increasingly being drawn to products that provide broad spectrum sun protection, without the traditional chemical actives. Research over the past five years shows that the number of products launched in personal care using the claim 'safe' has almost doubled. This ‘safe’ trend is driving demand away from organic sunscreens towards the use of metal oxides, namely zinc oxide and titanium dioxide which are perceived by consumers to be effective, safe, non-toxic and mild.
ZnO (zinc oxide) and TiO2 (titanium
, especially regarding the safety of nanoparticles penetrating the skin in personal care products. However, overwhelming research proves that nanoparticles are safe and not absorbed into the skin when used in personal care applications and that TiO2
dioxide) have a long history of safe use that predates their use in sunscreens. These inert minerals have historically been used in a wide range of products including baby care, personal care and toothpaste. There has been recent speculation about the safety of TiO2
is
highly effective and one of the safest options available in solar protection. Croda’s Solaveil™ Clarus ingredients are 100% mineral and include both titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. The titanium dioxide in the Solaveil CT range provides effective UVB protection and high SPF claims, while the Clarus CZ range uses zinc oxide to provide effective UVA protection. Combined, the CZ and CT range meet the demand for mildness on the skin, as well as broad spectrum claims without any whitening on the skin.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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