40 NATURALS
Starch granules
Cotyledons epidermis Figure 2: Four checkpoints of the botanical analysis of the chestnut.
regional supply and thus reducing the carbon footprint. This natural raw material is organic-certified, and the producer is a Global G.A.P. member, an organisation that certifies the agricultural quality worldwide. The conditions of cultivation, harvest and transformation are controlled and traced down to the level of the plot of land (Fig 3).
A mastered enzymatic engineering Pectins, and more precisely rhamnogalacturonans and uronic acids, are the molecules involved in the chestnut cell wall cohesion. It has been demonstrated that these molecules have biological effects by acting on several factors inherent in the mechanisms of homeostasis of the skin barrier function. To specifically isolate them from the chestnut, the extensive experience of Silab’s research teams allowed to establish a multistep process of bio- extraction to preserve the native compounds present in chestnuts.
a
Water makes up more than 70% of body and skin composition, so it was quite naturally that it became the extraction solvent for this natural active ingredient. After a first step of solubilisation in
water, an enzymatic cocktail was used to hydrolyse the molecular structure of interest. During this enzymatic step, bonds between pectins and cellulose as well as hemicellulose were cut. Then, pectin molecules were cleaved into patterns of different size and nature (Fig 4). Finally, a molecular separation using filtration was conducted to select the pectin fragments, which display biological activities in the epidermis. To demonstrate the specificity and the
relevance of the selection of the raw material and the associated bioengineering process, Silab demonstrated that pectins from other raw materials (apples and grapes) did not display the same properties than those of chestnuts.
b
A natural active ingredient with biological activities The epidermis is a dynamic tissue in constant renewal, depending on the perfect equilibrium between two processes: cell cohesion and desquamation, ensuring the integrity of the skin barrier (Fig 5). In dry skin, an imbalance of this equilibrium resulting in an altered skin barrier function is observed.3,4
The biological activity of Recoverine
(now referred to as ‘the chestnut seed extract’) was substantiated on the three mechanisms involved in the SC cohesion. Tested at 2% on human keratinocytes, the chestnut seed extract favours: l Keratinocyte differentiation by significantly inducing the expression of cytokeratins 1 and 10 (+116% and +123%), involucrin (+37%) and profilaggrin (+45%);
l The production of the lipid cement by boosting the expression of genes coding for the enzymes FAS and SPT by 55% and 19%;
l The establishment of intercellular junctions by boosting the synthesis of cadherin E by 17%.
The chestnut seed extract strengthens
the three pillars of a robust epidermal cohesion, thereby participating in the establishment of a functional and effective skin barrier.
c
Figure 3: Photographs of the selected raw material, the chestnut. a. Chestnut land, in Corrèze, France. b. Chestnut in their bug. c. Chestnut local producer.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Maintaining a fully operational barrier function is also made possible through an optimal desquamation. This process corresponds to the elimination of superficial corneocytes and is characterised by the degradation of protein junctions (corneodesmosomes) between these cells. An active desquamation is a prerequisite for the effective renewal of the skin barrier. Tested at 2% on human keratinocytes, the chestnut seed extract reduces the level of desmoglein-1 (-21%) whose degradation is essential for preserving the desquamation process. In addition, tested in vivo, the chestnut seed extract formulated at 4% significantly increases the activity of SCCE (+82%), an enzyme responsible for the
November 2018
Trichome
Internal tegument fragment
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