80 SILICONES Tresses of virgin blonde Caucasian hair
were pre-double bleached prior to performance testing. These hair tresses were treated with heat protecting spray, formulated with silicone microemulsion A (Formula 3) and followed by 50 cycles of flat iron at 230°C. Results are shown in Figure 3. Figure 3 shows less damage in those
tresses treated with silicone emulsion A compared to the untreated control. Silicone Quaternium-17 actively protects from heat damage, preventing cuticle cracking. The hair fibres require less force to detangle, break less when combing and look and feel healthier. A good result in thermal protection is achievable with the deposition of Silicone Quaternium-17 from a microemulsion format.
Colour protection Modern consumers often use hair colourants with variable degrees of longevity in order to change or enhance their natural hair colour. These permanent hair dyes, also referred to as oxidative dyes, are peroxide based alkalising agents that swell the hair fibre, enabling the dye precursors and a catalysing agent to reach the cortex. It is observed that hair treated with red hues are particularly prone to fading after UV exposure and shampooing. Studies found that red coloured hair tresses loose colour to a larger extent compared to other dyes, such as black, brown and blond. Thus, colour fading of the hair dye, while a key performance characteristic of the dye formulation, is also a useful consideration when formulating targeted rinse off or leave on products. The hair colour retention test was conducted on virgin blond Caucasian hair tresses. The tresses were treated with commercial red colour dye. Then the tresses were washed with shampoo (Formula 4) followed by rinse off conditioner (Formula 5). The tresses were washed in 15 cycles. Observation and measurements were recorded at an interval of 5, 10, 15 washes. Hair Tress I is the untreated swatch, directly after dying; hair tresses II was treated 15 times with control shampoo and conditioner; hair tress III was treated 15 times with shampoo and conditioner using silicone microemulsion A; hair tress IV was treated 15 times with shampoo and conditioner using non-silicone raw-materials. The results in Figure 4 demonstrate a clear
improvement in colour fading on hair tresses treated with silicone microemulsion A after 15 cycles of washing. Silicone microemulsion maintains colour vibrancy by forming a hydrophobic surface on hair.
Hair shininess Physical measurements show that phenyl group substituted silicones can significantly increase shine on hair. In particular, Phenyl Trimethicone is recognised for its ability to enhance hair shine and gloss along with
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Formulation 1: Shampoo for Combing Force Measurement Phase Ingredients A1 DI Water A2 A3 A4 A5 B1 B2
INCI Aqua
Tetrasodium EDTA Tetrasodium EDTA Viscolam CK1 SLES 70% TEA 99%
Acrylates Copolymer Sodium Laureth Sulfate Triethanolamine
Amido Betaine C Cocamidopropyl Betaine Comperlan CDE Cocamide DEA
C1 DMDMH Salt
C2 C3 C4 BRB 5446 BRB 5834 Procedure:
Add A1-A4 one by one into bulk. Mix well after each addition. Adjust pH to 6.5 using A5. Add B1 & B2 into bulk and mix well. Add C1 – C4 into bulk and mix well.
Formulation 2: Conditioner for Combing Force Measurement Phase Ingredients A1 DI Water Glycerin
INCI Aqua
A2 A3 B1 B2
B3 B4 Glycerin
Tylose HS 100,000 Hydroxthethylcellulose Euxyl PE 9010 Citric Acid
BRB 5446 BRB 5834 Procedure:
Add A1-A3 one by one into bulk. Mix well after each addition. Add B1 into bulk. Mix well. Add B2 into bulk to adjust pH to 4-5. Add B3 & B4 into bulk. Mix well.
Formulation 3: Heat Protecting Spray Phase Ingredients A1 DI Water A2 A3 A4
INCI Aqua
Alcohol denat. Alcohol Denat. Palmera G995E Glycerin
Propylene glycol Propylene Glycol Natura-Tec
A5 A6 A7
Aminosens Keratin Sol 25%
BRB 1288 BRB 5446 Procedure:
Add one by one all of the ingredients of phase A to water whilst stirring until obtaining a homogenous phase. Check final pH.
November 2018 Aqua (and) Hydrolyzed Keratin
Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-12 (and) Cetrimonium chloride
Silicone Quaternium-17 (and) Trideceth-7 (and) Trideceth-5
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin Citric Acid
Silicone Quaternium-17 (and) Trideceth-7 (and) Trideceth-5
Phenyl Trimethicone (and) Laureth-4 (and) Silicone Quaternium-17 (and) Laureth-23
A (%) B (%)
To 100 To 100 2.00 1.10 0.80 q.s.
2.00 1.10 0.80 q.s.
8.00 (1.2% Si active)
– –
7.06 (1.2% Si active)
DMDM Hydantoin Sodium Chloride
Silicone Quaternium-17 (and) Trideceth-7 (and) Trideceth-5
Phenyl Trimethicone (and) Laureth-4 (and) Silicone Quaternium-17 (and) Laureth-23
A (%) B (%)
To 100 To 100 0.10
3.00
15.00 q.s.
10.00 2.00 0.10 1.00
8.00 (1.2% Si active)
–
0.10 3.00
15.00 q.s.
10.00 2.00 0.10 1.00
–
7.06 (1.2% Si active)
(%)
To 100 20.00 2.00 2.00
2.00 1.50 2.00
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