84 LIFESTYLE COSMETICS
boosts their activity as evidenced by increased oxygen combustion and energy production.11
In addition, rutin counteracts
physical fatigue. Extreme exercise is associated with a depletion of energy along with an increase of ROS. Rutin counteracts these key processes and thus has excellent anti-fatigue activity.12 Rutin levels are highest in small capers
and decrease with their size. Rutin is degraded during industrial processing of capers, and fruits contain about six times less rutin than capers.13
For the active
ingredient, we only use small and unprocessed caper flower buds. With this, we achieve a high level of bioactive ingredients for optimal mitochondrial activation (Fig 3A).
Mulberry leaves – Mitochondria protection and skin lightening Morus species are valued for their leaves, which are nutritious, tasty and non-toxic,14 and constitute the main food for silkworms. In the 18th century, large areas in Europe had been planted with mulberry trees in order to establish the silk production. The invention of Nylon terminated silk production and the mulberry gardens fell into oblivion. Mulberry trees, however, are still found in historical gardens today. Nowadays, leaves from black, white and red mulberry are being used in Japan and Korea for tea, while they are used as traditional folk medicine in China and India. The value of mulberry leaves is attributed to phenolic compounds such as chlorogenic acid, gallic acid and, again, rutin.14,15 Chlorogenic acid provides mitochondrial
protection. It prevents stress-induced mitochondrial injury by reducing ROS production, activating the antioxidant enzyme SOD, and suppressing mitochondrial membrane depolarisation.16,17
The action of
chlorogenic acid is further supported by gallic acid, which has a resveratrol-like positive effect on mitochondrial function.17 In addition, mulberry leaves act as a
Figure 2: Power unit for your skin: a three-component natural ingredient based on caper flower buds, mulberry leaves and rose roots aiming to increase mitochondrial energy production while limiting
collateral emissions. This provides an extra boost of energy for an improved skin glow and
radiance.
Figure 1: Mitochondria and ROS emission play a key role in skin ageing. Mitochondria are the powerhouse of cells, which produce energy in form of ATP. However, the process of mitochondrial energy production is not completely error-free and leads to the generation of oxidative damage (ROS emission). Mitochondria of aged and demanded cells produce less energy but have more collateral ROS emission. Moreover, ROS are less efficiently neutralised. The toxic ROS attack the mitochondria itself; this establishes a harmful feedback loop of cumulated oxidative stress, and eventually causes skin fatigue and ageing. In contrast, vital cells that contain many young and healthy mitochondria produce high levels of energy and low levels of ROS, while neutralising oxidative stress efficiently. This efficient energy production results in an invigorated skin with a youthful glow.
promising lightening agent against skin hyperpigmentation.15,18
Hence, they not only
help to energise the skin via mitochondria protection, but also help to improve the skin’s overall complexion and glow.
Rose roots - a mood-enhancing adaptogen with ergogenic function Also known as arctic or golden root, its location and the process of extraction was a well-guarded secret. As late as in 1961, a Russian botanist located and identified golden root as Rhodiola rosea. Ever since, rose root received attention from the scientific community for its potential therapeutic capacity as an adaptogen and ergogen with putative anti-stress, mood-enhancing and performance-improving properties.19,20 An adaptogen is a substance that
increases our resistance to a variety of adverse physical, chemical or biological stressors in a non-specific way. An ergogen, like ginseng or caffeine, is a substance that enhances working capacity or exercise performance. Indeed, rose root counteracts exercise-induced fatigue and stimulates the recovery.21
radical mitigation are the most plausible mechanisms by which rose root improves physical performance and stress tolerance. This is feasible since metabolites such as
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE November 2018
Mitochondrial activation and free
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