SKIN CARE 49
during the day and night can be seen in Table 1. Interesting to note is the fact that the night time functions of the skin would indicate that this is the period when the skin would be most receptive to actives from a skin care product, but it tends to be day products but in fact it tends to be the day products like serums which are loaded with molecules to improve skin’s appearance and functions. Also the classic mantra of “day is protect, night is repair” was not too far off being the truth. A recent paper by L’Oréal assessed facial images of over a hundred women from two age groups (young and old), before and after a full working day, using skin atlases and a panel of ten expert assessors to grade eight facial signs. A panel of sixty naïve assessors also ranked the images in terms of an overall look (tiredness, age, dullness). The authors reported that the young group self- assessed as more tired after a day’s work and both groups were judged to be older looking and more tired looking in the evening. Expert assessment showed an improvement in the eye bags but a worsening of glabellar wrinkles in the older group, whereas in the younger subjects, nasolabial fold and crow’s feet wrinkles were more severe.5
This does
underline the need when performing clinical studies evaluating facial factors around ageing and wrinkle depth, that participants should report for clinical evaluation at the same times for each visit during a study.
Quality of sleep
So how does a lack of sleep affect our appearance and how does tiredness manifest itself? For the consumer there is definitely a feeling that poor sleep affects the appearance, with recently released data from Mintel showing that 71% of German women feel that amount of sleep affects skin appearance and 72% of Chinese consumers wanting to improve the condition of their skin through better quality sleep. In 2013 at the International Investigative Dermatology Meeting in Edinburgh, Estée Lauder and University Hospitals Cleveland presented their findings on the link between sleep deprivation and skin ageing.6
The study
included sixty participants aged between 30 and 49 years, of whom half were assessed to be poor sleepers. Using the SCINEXA skin ageing scoring system, poor quality sleepers showed increased signs of skin ageing including fine lines, uneven pigmentation, slackening of skin and reduced elasticity. In this system, with a higher score meaning a
more aged appearance, the average score in the good quality sleepers was 2.2 versus 4.4 in poor quality sleepers. They found no significant difference between the groups in signs of extrinsic ageing, which are attributed primarily to sun exposure, such as coarse wrinkles and sunburn freckles. The researchers also found that good quality sleepers recovered more efficiently from stressors to the skin. Recovery from sunburn was more sluggish in poor quality sleepers, with erythema remaining higher over 72 hours, indicating that inflammation is less efficiently resolved. A Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) test was used at various time points to determine the ability of the skin to serve as an effective barrier against moisture loss. In measurements taken 72 hours after a skin barrier stressor (tape- stripping), the recovery of good quality sleepers was 30% higher than that of poor quality sleepers demonstrating that they repair the damage more quickly. Self- perception of attractiveness was significantly better in good quality sleepers (mean score of 21 on self-evaluation) vs. poor quality sleepers (mean score of 18).
An earlier study on a smaller cohort of subjects (n=29) using 65 naïve assessors had shown that sleep deprivation resulted in significantly lower scores for perceived
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kosmetik.com
November 2018
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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