76 SILICONES


Conclusion Properly chosen alkyl dimethicone polymers are soluble in oil including mineral oil, simple esters, complex esters and natural oils allowing for the modification of aesthetics of formulations using these oils by simply adding these materials to the oil phase above the melting point of the alkyl dimethicone. This addition improves the spread, lowers the surface tension and minimises stickiness of the oil. The selection of an alkyl dimethicone having over 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain allows for the preparation of cosmetic butters that avoid the partial hydrogenation process and therefore are free of undesirable trans fats and provide the aesthetic boost of a silicone polymer. The ability to select different oils and


different alkyl dimethicone products offers the formulator the possibility of having a range of hardness, spreadability, flow and feel. This will allow a specific formulation to become a ‘platform’ formulation which can be altered for different consumer needs.


PC


References 1 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shea_butter 2 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cocoa_butter 3 Oils of Nature - 4 http://www.scientificspectator.com/book- service/


5 https://www.naturaloilsforhair.net/2017/09/ benefits-of-illipe-nut-butter.html


6 https://thebestorganicskincare.com/mango- butter-skin-and-hair-benefits/


7 U.S. Patent 7,875,263 to O’Lenick, Kevin, entitled Polymeric Structures Gels, issued January 25, 2011 assigned to Siltech LLC.


8 O’Lenick T. Why Use Silicones in Personal Care Products? Household and Personal Care Today 2016; 11(3).


9 O’Lenick A. Silicones for Personal Care, Allured Publishing, 2008.


10 Available at: http://www.scientificspectator.com/book- service/


Table 6: Emulsion formulation7


Formula 2 Non-


Structured Oil


Olive Oil Water


Lauryl PEG 8 Dimethicone


Cetyl Dimethicone


ADM – 2 C26 Dimethicone


Total


36.0 55.0


4.0 5.0 – 100.0 PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


Formula 1 Non-


Structured Oil


36.0 55.0


4.0 – 5.0 100.0 Formula 1 – Non structured Formula 2 – Structured November 2018 Figure 5: Emulsion structured and non-structured oil phase.8 20%


Table 4: M.P. of structured Gel with 10% and 20% of Alkyl Dimethicone (ADM) ADM – 1 53 ~ 60°C 51-60°C


10% ADM Added 20% ADM Added


Table 5: Texture of structured Gels Texture of Butters 5% ADM 20% ADM 20% ADM


ADM – 2 50 ~ 52°C 50 ~ 54°C


ADM – 3 44-50°C


47 ~ 52°C


ADM – 1


Not Good* Improved Good


ADM – 2


Not Good* Improved Good


ADM – 3


Not Good* Improved Good


* The structured gel when press in the container cracked. Table 9 (below) shows the resulting structured gels


Figure 4: Structured Gels of ADM/C8-10 Triglyceride ADM – 1 ADM – 2 ADM – 3 5%


10%


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