HAIR CARE 93 Test method
Mannequin heads with medium brown human hair were purchased from
giell.com. Hair was bleached twice with Pravana®
Light Power Lightener. The hair was then coloured with one of the following commercially available hair colouring products: Clairol®
Textures and Tones® Excellence® Pure Red
Hot Red hair dye 4R (Coty Inc., New York, NY), L’Oreal®
Medium Golden
Brown (L’Oreal S.A., France) and Igora Royal 5.99 Light Brown Violet Extra (Schwarzkopf Professional, Germany). The mannequin heads were washed with a shampoo and conditioner regimen a total of 12 times. The control regimen was a simple shampoo and conditioner regimen. The regimen with Polyquaternium-113 contained 1% active polymer in both the shampoo and conditioner. Hair was analysed after dyeing and after 3, 6, 9 and 12 washes. To assess the efficacy of Polyquaternium- 113 with semi-permanent hair dyes, platinum bleached hair tresses were dyed with ion™ Color Brilliance Semi-Permanent Gemstones Tanzanite and Manic Panic Semi-Permanent Hair Color Cream Wildfire. The platinum bleached hair tresses were purchased from International Hair Importers (Glendale, New York). The hair samples were then washed with a shampoo and conditioner regimen a total of 5 times. The control regimen was a simple shampoo and conditioner regimen. The regimen with Polyquaternium-113 contained 1% active polymer in both shampoo and conditioner. Hair swatches and mannequin heads
were imaged by hyperspectral imaging. A Headwall Photonics G4-395 camera provided us with a spectrum coverage from the near UV (380 nm) through the mid- infrared (988 nm) wavelengths. Each pixel contains a spectrum of reflectivities. By calibrating the camera for light source spectral intensities, we can obtain the exact spectral reflectivity spectrum of a surface, in our case, hair swatches. Lighting was placed laterally at 40 degrees from the imaging axis to avoid shine and bring out colour. The Visia-CR imaging system was used to take photos of the mannequin heads.
Results
Our studies revealed that the hair to which Polyquaternium-113 was applied showed reduced levels of loss in pigments from inside the hair fibres as observed by higher light absorbances than washes with control formulas. Pigment light absorption contributions can be extracted by using the absorption spectrum from the bleached hair and used as a substrate prior to colouration. The images in Figure 1 show of both sides of a mannequin after 12 washes after they underwent the same shampoo +
November 2018 Without Polyquaternium-113 With Polyquaternium-113
Figure 3: Visia-CR image of hair after 12 washes. Hair was dyed with L’Oreal Excellence Medium Golden Brown 5G.
4
3.5 3
2.5 2
1.5 1
0.5 0
400 450 500 550 600 650 700 Wavelength (nm)
4
3.5 3
2.5 2
1.5 1
0.5 0
400 450 500 550 600 650 700 Wavelength (nm)
Figure 4: Hyperspectral absorption spectra of hair dyed with L’Oréal Excellence Medium Golden Brown 5G and washed 12 times.
With Polyquaternium-113 Without Polyquaternium-113
Figure 5: Visia-CR image of hair after 12 washes. Hair was dyed with Igora Royal Light Brown Violet Extra - 5.99.
4
3.5 3
2.5 2
1.5 1
0.5 0
400 450 500 550 600 650 700 Wavelength (nm)
4
3.5 3
2.5 2
1.5 1
0.5 0
400 450 500 550 600 650 700 Wavelength (nm)
Figure 6: Hyperspectral absorption spectra of hair dyed with Igora Royal Light Brown Violet Extra and washed 12 times.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Absorption coefficient
Absorption coefficient
Absorption coefficient
Absorption coefficient
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