92 HAIR CARE
Table 3: Composition of permanent hair dyes used for colouring, as listed on the product labels for each product.
Clairol Textures & Tones 4R/Red Hot Red
Water, Ethanolamine, Propylene Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, C11-15 Pareth-9, Soytrimonium Chloride, C12-15 Pareth-3, Ethoxydiglycol, Oleth- 5, Oleth-2, Dilinoleic Acid, Fragrance, 1-Hydroxyethyl 4,5- Diamino Pyrazole Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Tall Oil Acid, Ascorbic Acid, m- Aminophenol, Oleamide MIPA, Oleth-10, Sodium Sulfite, EDTA, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Jasminum Officinale (Jasmine) Flower/Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Myristica Fragrans (Nutmeg) Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) See Extract
L’Oreal Paris Excellence 5G Medium Golden Brown
Aqua/Water/Eau, Cetearyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Deceth-3, Laureth-12, Ammonium Hydroxide, Oleth- 30, Hexadimethrine Chloride, Lauric Acid, Glycol Distearate, Polyquaterniun-22,
Ethanolamine, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, CI 77891/Titanium Dioxide, m-Aminophenol, p- Aminophenol, Ascorbic Acid,
Sodium Metabisulfite, 6- Hydroxyindole, Ammonium Thiolactate, 2-Methylresorcinol, Dimethicone, Pentasodium Pentetate, Proline, p- Phenylenediamine,
Parfum/Fragrance, Carbomer, Threonine, Resorcinol
Igora Royal, 5.99 Medium Brown Violet Extra
Aqua/Water/Eau, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ammonium Hydroxide, Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth-20, Octyldodecanol, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Extract, Glycerin, Ethanolamine, 1-Hydroxyethyl 4,5-Diamino Pyrazole Sulfate, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Olec Acid, 1 – Naphthol, Parfum/Fragrance, Toluene 2,5-Diamine Sulfate, Potassium Stearate, Sodium Sulfite, Tetrasodium EDTA, 2- Amino-4- Hydroxyethylaminoanisole Sulfate, Carbomer, Polyquaternium-39, m- Aminophenol, 6-Methyoxy-2- Methyamino-3-Aminopyridine HCl, Potassium Hydroxide, Ascorbic Acid, Linoleamidopropyl PG- Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Sodium Sulfate, Linalool, Benzoic Acid, Citric Acid, CI 77891/Titanium Dioxide
Without Polyquaternium-113 With Polyquaternium-113
defense against colour fading. ChromoHance™ 113 polymer (INCI- Polyquaternium-113) is a patent-pending technology specifically designed to form a hydrophobic protective layer around the cuticle, to lock in colour and prevent colour leaching during shampoo and conditioning cycles. ChromoHance 113 polymer can be used with both permanent and semi- permanent/temporary hair dyes. Developing and adapting objective evaluation techniques that correlate well with consumer perception are essential claim support and marketing tools. To demonstrate the colour protection efficacy of ChromoHance 113 polymer, we used a novel optical imaging technique combining spectroscopy with imaging. With hyperspectral imaging, it is possible to monitor specific dyes to show which are fading faster. The hyperspectral image analyses show the colouration pigment absorption bands from the chroma (internal reflection) region on the mannequin heads. Absorbances can be followed over time to quantify the level/amount of pigment leaching out from hair after applying repeated cycles of shampoo and conditioner.
Figure 1: Visia-CR image of hair after 12 washes. Hair was dyed with Clairol Textures and Tones Red Hot Red 4R.
4
3.5 3
2.5 2
1.5 1
0.5 0
400 450 500 550 600 650 700 Wavelength (nm)
4
3.5 3
2.5 2
1.5 1
0.5 0
400 450 500 550 600 650 700 Wavelength (nm)
Figure 2: Hyperspectral absorption spectra of hair dyed with Clairol Textures and Tones Red Hot Red 4R and washed 12 times.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Hyperspectral imaging: a new technique to show colour protection Hyperspectral imaging is a new technique that expands on classical imaging by combining photography with spectroscopy. Where classical imaging gives a picture in which each pixel is defined by three values (red, green and blue), hyperspectral imaging provides a picture hypercube in which each pixel contains an entire spectrum of light intensity at each wavelength of the integrated spectroscope. This enables the selective detection and measurement of ingredients based on their spectra fingerprint, i.e. colouration pigments. For instance, individual hair colour dyes can be monitored for their lastingness under repeated shampoo applications and quantified with respect to which dyes are fading faster. Absorbances can be extracted and followed over time as the pigment leaches out from the hair with repeated application cycles of shampoo and conditioner.
Visia® -CR imaging
Visia-CR imaging is a complementary method to visualise and track progression of colour fading over time. It can be used with mannequins to take digital images of the hair surface under controlled and highly reproducible lighting conditions. It serves to visualise and track the progression of colour fading over time. It has been adapted for mannequin heads to take digital images of the hair surface under reproducible daylight conditions.
November 2018
Absorption coefficient
Absorption coefficient
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