SILICONES 81
adding softness, manageability and smoothness to the abraded hair cuticle.5 Benefits of Phenyl Trimethicone include improved organic compatibility, shine and gloss, spreadability and reduced tackiness. Virgin blonde Caucasian hair tresses were
pre-double bleached before performance testing. The hair tresses were treated with ‘whipped cream conditioner’ formulated with silicone microemulsion B (Formula 6). Hair tresses I treated with control ‘whipped cream conditioner’ without silicone microemulsion; hair tresses II were treated with ‘whipped cream conditioner’ formulated with 3% silicone mircroemulsion B. The results in Figure 5 clearly indicated
that hair tresses II, treated with silicone microemulsion, provide notably higher gloss levels. The shine of the hair is much improved demonstrating healthy-looking hair, a common claim of many hair care products.
Application The silicone microemulsions A and B are low viscosity, pourable liquids and therefore very easy to incorporate into hair care formulations. They are fully soluble in water, cold processable and can be added into formulation at the end of process with gentle mixing. They are particularly recommended for use in clear rinse off or leave on hair care products.
Conclusion
Fast developing, global cosmetic trends help create a growing demand for high performance hair care products offering the multifunctional, claimable effects. Functionally modified silicone microemulsions are raw materials specially developed in response to meet this demand for customized hair conditioning treatments. Both silicone microemulsion A (Silicone
Quaternium-17 (and) Trideceth-7 (and) Trideceth-5) and silicone microemulsion B (Phenyl Trimethicone (and) Laureth-4 (and) Silicone Quaternium-17 (and) Laureth-23) are multifunctional hair conditioning agents, delivering measurable improvements, providing hair with an enhanced natural look and feel.
PC
References 1. Silicone Emulsion A: Silicone Quaternium-17 (and) Trideceth-7 (and) Trideceth-5
2. Silicone Emulsion B: Phenyl Trimethicone (and) Laureth-4 (and) Silicone Quaternium-17 (and) Laureth-23
3. O’Lenick AJ. Silicones for Personal Care 2nd Edition
4. Boonme P, Pakpayat N, Yotmanee K, Kunlawijitrungsee S, Maneenuan D. Evaluation of Shampoos Containing Silicone Quaternary Microemulsion. Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science 2011; 01 (01): 59—63
5. Barel AO, Paye M, Maibach HI. Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology 3rd Edition.
November 2018
Formulation 4: Shampoo for Colour Protection Test Phase Ingredients A1 DI Water
INCI Aqua
A2 B1 B2
B3
B4 B5
B6 Iselux-LQ-CLR
Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate
Amido Betaine C Cocamidopropyl Betaine Corum 6130
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
Euxyl PE 9010 BRB 5446
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
Silicone Quaternium-17 (and) Trideceth-7 (and) Trideceth-5
Polyquaternium-11 Polyquaternium-11 Citric acid
Citric Acid Procedure:
Add A1 & A2 into bulk. Mix well. Add B1-B5 one by one into bulk. Mix well after each addition. Add B6 to adjust pH to 5.0-6.0.
Formulation 5: Conditioner for Colour Protection Test Phase Ingredients A1 DI Water A2 A3 B1
INCI Aqua
Glycerin Glycerin
Tylose HS 100000 Hydroxyethylcellulose Cetearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol
B2
C1 C2 C3 C4
Tewax TC-65 BRB 5446
Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG- 100 Stearate
Silicone Quaternium-17 (and) Trideceth-7 (and) Trideceth-5
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
II (%) III(%)
To 100 To 100 3.00 1.00 4.00
3.00 1.00 4.00
1.00 – Citric Acid
1.00 q.s.
1.00
6.67 (1.0% Si active)
1.00 q.s.
IV (%) To 100 3.00 1.00 4.00
1.00 –
Polyquaternium-11 Polyquaternium-11 –– 1.00 Euxyl PE 9010 Citric Acid
1.00 q.s.
Procedure:
Add phase A into tank and mix well. Heat to 70-75°C. In a separate beaker heat phase B to 70-75°C. Add step 2 into step 1. Homogenize well. Cool bulk to 45°C. Add C1-C3 one by one into bulk. Mix well after each addition. Adjust pH to 3.5-4.5 with C4.
Formulation 6: Whipped Cream for Hair Shininess Test Phase Ingredients A1 A2 A3 B1 B2 B3 B4
INCI
Tego Alkonol 1618 Cetyl Alcohol Stearic acid
Tego Alkanol L 4 DI Water
Genamin KDMP Tequart Cetac 29 Propylene Glycol
C1
C2 C3 D1
BRB 5834 Dhyton PK 45
Stearic Acid Laureth-4 Aqua
Behentrimonium Chloride Cetrimonium Chloride Propylene Glycol
Phenyl Trimethicone (and) Silicone Quaternium-17 (and) Laureth-4 (and) Laureth-23
Cocoamidopropyl Betaine
Aminoacid Complex Aminoacid Complex Euxyl PE 9010
Procedure:
Heat and mix A1-A3 to 80-82°C. In a separate beaker, heat B1-B2-B4 to 80-82°C and then added B3. Add step 1 into step 2. Homogenize well. Cool bulk to 40°C. Add C1-C3 into bulk one by one. Mix well after each addition. Add D1 into bulk. Mix well. Checked pH.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
I (%) 1.00 0.50 1.00
II(%) 1.00 0.50 1.00
To 100 To 100 0.30 3.00 1.00
0.30 3.00 1.00
–
1.00 1.00 0.40
3.00
1.00 1.00 0.40
II (%) III(%)
To 100 To 100 30.00 15.00 3.00
30.00 15.00 3.00
1.00
– –
q.s. 1.00
6.67 (1.0% Si active)
q.s.
IV (%) To 100
30.00 15.00 3.00
1.00 –
1.00 q.s.
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