34 NATURALS
Formulating with natural ingredients
n Claire Summers – Azelis, UK
Azelis offers a wide selection of natural raw materials, answering the needs of the personal care market. We constantly monitor and embrace emerging trends and give our customers the tools to allow them to address those needs with our portfolio of raw materials available from our principals. The formulating landscape has dramatically changed over the past ten years. We see an evolution occurring where the natural content or credentials of a raw material is not the primary focus anymore; the efficacy of the raw material is now becoming more important. Consumers are becoming more conscious and knowledgeable about the products they use. They expect naturally derived raw materials from a sustainable, transparent source they can trust.
While the origin of the raw material
remains important, it is now part of a much bigger story. Not only do consumers and cosmetic manufacturers want to know where the raw materials come from, but also the impact they have on the environment, the resources required to make or modify them and how they are used in the cosmetics industry. It does not stop there. We are regularly asked about traceability of the manufacturing process, waste management and many other topics linked to the sustainability of the product. The origin and urgency of these questions
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Formulation 1: Rice lotion (ref.7476). Phase Ingredient A
B C
Deionised Water Reisita Natural1 KELTROL CG-RD2 Preservative
Reisita Natural3 Sleeping Beauty 1784
Procedure Premix phase B and add to phase A, mixing until homogenous. Heat phase A/B to 75°C. Cool batch, while stirring, to 40°C. Add phase C, mixing until homogenous between each addition.
INCI Aqua
Oryza Sativa Starch Xanthan Gum
Oryza Sativa Starch Parfum
Suppliers 1 Agrana/Azelis 2 CP Kelco/Azelis 3 Agrana/Azelis 4 IFF/Azelis
%
to 100% 2.50 1.00 q.s.
5.00 0.50
show that consumers and cosmetic manufacturers are no longer satisfied with a raw material just being denoted as ‘natural’. They want to know and understand what makes it natural and why. Another growing trend is the
requirement for the entire formulation to be created from naturally derived raw materials. This applies to many of the raw materials used in our formulations, from thickeners to emulsifiers and from preservatives to textural modifiers.
Marine ingredients The increasing interest in raw materials derived from the marine environment highlights the current tendency to market,
not just the natural actives, but also the structure on which the stability or texture of a formulation is based. Seaweed-derived raw materials are used for many purposes because of their textural and active benefits. Carrageenan gum is one example; it is used in the personal care industry for the amazing textures and skin-feel it can bring to a formulation. It is also used in many food applications for its texture enhancement. Genuvisco®
CG 131 from CP
Kelco is an iota carrageenan which has been extracted from red seaweed, Chondrus crispus. It fulfils all the needs of natural formulating as it is biodegradable as well as COSMOS-certified.
Carrageenan can be used alone or in November 2018
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