LIFESTYLE COSMETICS 87


2. Level of skin glow, including bright and youthful appearance. To this end, brightness, shininess and gloss were evaluated on the cheek using a glossymeter.


3. Vibrant skin colour, meaning skin with a nice hue that is neither overtly red nor yellow. Colour was evaluated by measuring L*, a* and b* on the cheek using a chromameter.


4. Physical and psychological wellbeing, which are subjective parameters. Wellbeing was self-assessed at the beginning and the end of the study using a 10-degree questionnaire that queries positive wellbeing, negative states of mood, and energy/ fatigue items.27


Technique


Double-blind, placebo-controlled, randomised in vivo study with 2 x 20 Caucasian female volunteers, 30 – 65 years old. One group applied a cream formulation with 1% active ingredient, the other group applied the same formulation without active ingredient (placebo). Facial application, twice daily for four weeks. The following endpoints were assessed:


Results


The application of the active ingredient improved the facial skin radiance measurably, visibly and noticeably after 4 weeks:


The skin on the forehead and the cheek was significantly smoother (Fig 6) and became markedly more homogenous (not shown). The surface topography has a tremendous impact on the visual appearance. Firstly, even skin is thought to have better glow than uneven skin. Smooth skin is luminous and bright because it reflects light directly, whereas rough skin is dull because it diffuses light in many directions. Secondly, less wrinkles and particularly worry lines on the forehead will make the consumer look more happy and appealing – this, in turn, will have a positive impact on the subject’s wellbeing. Even skin reflected light more directly, which is a hallmark for radiant skin. As a consequence, the skin developed a healthy glow with a luminous and youthful touch (Fig 7 and not shown).


The overall skin colour improved substantially, as it became lighter but more intense – and with less pale yellow but more attractive pink (Fig 8). These skin radiance benefits were substantiated by self-assessment via a questionnaire. Of note, improved radiance had a big impact on the overall wellbeing and the quality of life: volunteers experienced better mental comfort, more energy and less fatigue, and pessimistic vibes such as bad mood or worries had been allayed (Fig 9).


November 2018 -5 Placebo 1% HerbaGlow NRG Improvement of Forehead Smoothness 10 ** ** + 6.5% 5


0 - 1.7%


Figure 6: Providing smooth and uniform skin. Top: Relative decrease of skin roughness on the forehead after 4 weeks compared to untreated skin (before treatment). Bottom: Corresponding, representative pseudocolour images before and after treatment with the active ingredient. N = 20; Mean + SEM; Student’s t-test versus baseline and between treatments; * = p < 0.05; ** = p < 0.01.


Improvement of Glow * * 20 +17.4%


0 - 4.9%


-20 Placebo 1% HerbaGlow NRG


Figure 7: Providing brightness and a glow of youth. Relative increase of direct light reflection compared to untreated skin (before treatment). It is this mirror-like light reflection that gives the skin a natural, luminous gloss without appearing oily. N = 20; Mean + SEM; Student’s t-test versus baseline and between treatments; * = p < 0.05; ** = p < 0.01


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


Increase of Light Reflection (%)


Decrease of Roughness (%)


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