62 SUN PROTECTION
Formulation 1: Natural Sun Safe for Kids SPF 30 CH0054 Phase INCI Name
A
Solaveil XT-300 (Titanium Dioxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Alumina)1
Crodamol™ EO (Ethyl Oleate)1 Cithrol PGTL (Tri(Polglyceryl-3/Lauryl) Hydrogenated Trilinoleate)1
Avocadin HU25 (Persea Gratissima Oil (and) Phytosterols (and) Olea Europaea Fruit Oil)2
Dermosoft® GMCY (Glyceryl Caprylate) 4
NG Shea Unsaponifiable (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (and) Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Unsaponifiables)3 B
Water Deionised (Aqua) Pricerine™ 9091 (Glycerin)1
Magnesium Sulphate Heptahydrate5
to 100 3.00 0.70
Procedure: Combine Part A, excluding the Solaveil XT-300 and Dermosoft GMCY, and use minimal heat to make homogenous. Leave to cool, and once below 40°C add Solaveil XT-300 and Dermosoft GMCY, and stir until homogenous. Combine Part B and stir until homogenous. Using a star shaped stirrer with fast stirring (approximately 500rpm), slowly add Part B to Part A. Homogenise using an ultra-turrax mixer at 10,000rpm for 1.5 minutes per 200g. Stir slowly (approximately 200rpm) for 30 minutes per 200g before filling off into the relevant
containers.Combine Part A, excluding the Solaveil XT-300 and Dermosoft GMCY, and use minimal heat to make homogenous. Leave to cool, and once below 40°C add Solaveil XT-300 and Dermosoft GMCY, and stir until homogenous. Combine Part B and stir until homogenous. Using a star shaped stirrer with fast stirring (approximately 500rpm), slowly add Part B to Part A. Homogenise using an ultra-turrax mixer at 10,000rpm for 1.5 minutes per 200g. Stir slowly (approximately 200rpm) for 30 minutes per 200g before filling off into the relevant containers.
Suppliers: 1: Croda 2: Crodarom 3: Sederma 4: Dr. Straetmans GmbH 5: Sigma
Beach sunscreens: the Attenborough effect World renowned British broadcaster and naturalist David Attenborough is known for writing and presenting animal and nature documentaries. His most recent television series, Blue Planet 2, shocked the world by exposing the destructive impact our daily lives have on the already fragile ecosystem of the ocean. There has been a drive to limit the effect humans are have on the ocean and the most widely recognised outcome from the series has been the push to reduce the use of single use plastic products. The fragility of the coral reefs was also highlighted, raising awareness of coral bleaching caused by pollution and the rising CO2
levels in the atmosphere. Recent
research has suggested that certain sunscreen chemicals used in many solar protection products can also be a contributing factor to coral bleaching. The main culprits are oxybenzone and octinoxate which, when in the water, decrease the corals’ defences against bleaching, damaging their DNA and development. A recent study has shown that oxybenzone starts to cause serious damage, even at very low concentrations. These substances enter into the ocean
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
when beachgoers wearing sunscreen go swimming and can also enter marine ecosystems through sewage treatment plant outflows. Governments are beginning to take note
of current research on marine wildlife, the oceans and on consumer pressure to act. In the state of Hawaii, the government has gone as far as banning the sale of sunscreens that contain oxybenzone and octinxate, to protect their precious coral ecosystems. It may be the case that others soon follow suit. This type of research paired with consumer pressure, has driven the necessity for marine friendly sun care products. There has been an increase in the number of solar protection products coming to the market that are making claims for their marine safe credentials, many of which use titanium dioxide as their UV filters.
Beyond the beach: daily wear solar protection Consumer awareness of the causes of skin damage has caused a new mega trend to emerge, where health and wellbeing meet beauty and anti-ageing. Today’s consumers are demanding multifaceted products that provide both solar and pollution protection. To align with the demand for reef safe
% Wt 28.00
18.00 3.00
1.00 1.00 1.00
claims and 100% mineral filters within daily wear products, Croda’s award-winning Solaveil SpeXtra range of titanium dioxide filters allows formulators to create high SPF, broad spectrum sun protection with just one active thus, negating the need to include any other UVA filters. Italian research and development consultancy, EcoReach Ltd, are specialists in marine life and environmental research. EcoReach have performed reef safety testing on Solaveil SpeXtra and have a validated formulation containing Solaveil SpeXtra. This consumer driven demand has also resulted in an influx of products that have protection against multiple, environmental aggressors, with many of these products containing titanium dioxide and zinc oxide for their solar protection properties. Optisol™ OTP-1 is also a titanium dioxide based filter with a unique lattice structure that provides protection from environmental pollutants, unparalleled by any UV filter currently commercially available. Reef safety data obtained from a study, conducted again by EcoReach, shows no coral bleaching for TiO2
(nano) or Optisol OTP-1. Conclusion
Clean beauty is a trend that only seems to be growing in force, and with the increasing push by consumers towards ‘chemical-free’ products that have little environmental impact, it is clear to see why many brands are creating products that fit these demands. Companies are beginning to realise that consumers are becoming more aware of the ingredients in the products that they use on their skin and body. The clean beauty movement is beginning to raise questions around many ingredients used within various personal care products, including many of the chemical UV absorbers that are used in many sunscreen products. Consequently, there has been a raised interest in 100% mineral sunscreens that are seen to be safer and milder on the skin. In the past, 100% mineral sunscreens were associated with white pasty products that were difficult to apply. Croda’s product, Solaveil Clarus is a mineral-based UV filter that is engineered to provide clarity on the skin, whilst maintaining high SPF levels. In addition to the clean beauty movement, the environmental impact of the ingredients used in beauty products is also beginning to become a hot topic of discussion. Many consumers are looking for environmentally friendly products, including reef safe sunscreens. Fortunately, products launched on to the market containing Solaveil SpeXtra have been shown to be reef safe and many of Croda’s sun care ingredients are COSMOS and/or Ecocert naturally approved, meaning clean, efficacious, 100% mineral sunscreens that meet growing consumer demands can be formulated with ease.
PC November 2018
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