LIFESTYLE COSMETICS 83
Energise your skin for a glow of youth
n Stefan Bänziger, Tamina Shah, Bernd Walzel, Beatrix Senti, Ulrike Bätz - Lipoid Kosmetik, Switzerland
The modern lifestyle is an exhaustive lifestyle: augmented fitness and leisure activities, intensified human relations, accelerated communication, tiring business... However, in these times of multi- tasking, our body not only needs to function, but should be energy-filled and powerful. The same applies to our skin: in periods of exhaustive lifestyle, the skin not only needs to tolerate the stress, but should have a radiant and youthful glow. The solution of this energy crisis is not
easy, because it is not about slowing down our lifestyle! It is more about how we and our skin deal with busy times and falling energy levels. It is about keeping pace, healthiness and radiance by boosting the skin’s energy supply! In other words, consumers want to complement this change in lifestyle. Consequently, they have a strong desire for energising, recharging and youth-activating cosmetic ingredients. This fact explains that the trend ‘Powerplay’, which is represented by energy claims, is one of the key trends that impact the beauty and personal care industry over the next decade (revealed by Mintel1
).
This trend drives the cosmetic market towards a variety of appealing concepts, such as ATP boosters, repower ingredients, fatigue- fighting products, youth-activating rechargers, and many more to come.
Mitochondria produce energy but cause collateral ROS emission Mitochondria are cellular organelles that produce about 90% of the organism’s energy. Each cell, depending on its metabolic demand, contains about 100– 2,000 mitochondria. From a technical point of view, energy production in mitochondria is a combustion reaction that yields ATP, the energy currency of life. ATP functions as a biological fuel for all kind of cellular activities and can be considered a universal source of energy.2 The process of energy production in mitochondria is not completely error-free and leads to the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). ROS firstly attack the mitochondria itself and thereby initiate a
November 2018 Abstract
In times of exhaustive lifestyles, we need to compensate the skin’s high energy demand in order to keep skin’s healthiness and radiance. Active, modern and conscious consumers thus strongly seek for energising and recharging cosmetic ingredients to maintain a radiant skin perfection with a glow of youth, even in periods of high intensity.
HerbaGlow® NRG unites extracts of caper flower buds, mulberry leaves and rose
roots in a preservative-free and self-preserving solvent system. The COSMOS- approved anti-ageing active targets the number and quality of mitochondria, which are the energy powerhouses of the cell. An extra boost of energy recharges tired-looking skin, yielding a fresh-looking, healthy and youthful glow. This makes the active ingredient a perfect fit for cosmetic concepts such as energy-
centric formulations, skin burnout treatments, and youth-activating as well as applications aiming to improve skin glow and radiance.
harmful feedback loop that steadily increases collateral ROS emission and gradually diminishes mitochondrial energy production. Indeed, as we age, mitochondrial ATP
However, it is not only age, but also a demanding lifestyle that can cause energy crisis and oxidative stress, because increased mitochondrial energy production is accompanied by increased ROS production. This cumulated oxidative damage of tissue cells eventually drives premature ageing. Taken together, mitochondria are the major source and target of ROS, and thus these organelles play a key role in the ageing process,4,6 including skin fatigue and ageing. In contrast, vital skin cells contain high numbers of healthy mitochondria with elevated energy production rates and low ROS emission. This efficient cellular energy supply confers a youthful appearance and a natural glow to the skin (Fig 1).
production and overall cellular energy levels decline and production of toxic ROS increases.3-5
Mitochondria activation is the key to energise the skin for a ‘Glow of Youth’
Even under normal conditions, skin has a high energy requirement to support its metabolic needs for tissue maintenance. But sometimes our life goes so fast that our skin cannot even follow. Insufficient supply of energy and over-production of ROS
induces accumulating oxidative damage. If the skin’s countervailing mechanisms cannot keep pace, our skin not only becomes dull and lifeless but also develops visible signs of ageing.3 Mitochondria play key roles in cellular
bioenergy and are known as biochemical powerhouses. Cosmetic strategies targeting the mitochondria will thus help to strengthen and energise natural skin functions to reveal a younger, healthier, more vibrant and vital radiance. Indeed, polyphenols from caper, mulberry and rose root have a great potential to combat the age-associated decline in energy production and to speed up the recharging of the skin’s energy reservoir.7 The active ingredient combines extracts
from caper, mulberry and rose root in a preservative-free and self-preserving solvent system (Fig 2):
Caper flower buds - Mitochondria activation power from the bud The flower buds, better known as capers, have already been suggested by Arabian traditional medicine for the treatment of skin diseases, probably because of their high number of bioactive constituents, such as rutin, which accounts for about half of the total amount of phenolic compounds.8,9 Rutin counteracts ageing-related mitochondrial dysfunction: it increases the size and number of mitochondria10
and PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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