88 LIFESTYLE COSMETICS
Conclusion Every organism requires sufficient energy levels to stay active and well protected. In particular, human skin cells, as being directly exposed to a multitude of environmental challenges, are highly dependent on large amounts of energy. A loss of skin energy is closely related to alterations in the skin structure – one main mechanism leading to premature signs of ageing.
Mitochondria are increasingly
recognised as an important target for skin care, especially in the anti-ageing sector. Support of the mitochondrial biogenesis and function increases the energy level and helps to use cellular energy more efficiently. It is thus reasonable to expect that skin care products boosting mitochondrial functions will provide skin benefits such as oxidative defence, improved skin barrier, protection from environmental assaults, and ultimately rejuvenation of skin appearance. We here demonstrated that
mitochondrial activation by a natural active ingredient based on caper flower buds, mulberry leaves, and rose roots not only fights low energy levels, but restores the skin’s natural glow visibly. The skin looks healthier, more radiant and younger, and the consumer feels fresher and happier. In essence, the active ingredient recharges and revives the skin and allows us to face the stresses and strains of everyday life with calmness – and attractive skin.
PC
References 1. Mintel.
http://www.mintel.com/press- centre/beauty-and-personal-care/mintel- announces-four-beauty-trends-set-to-impact- global-markets-by-2025. 2015.
2. Voet D, Voet JG. Electron Transport Chain and Oxidative Phosporylation. In: Biochemistry. 1 ed.1992.
3. Blatt T, Lenz H, Koop U, et al. Stimulation of skin’s energy metabolism provides multiple benefits for mature human skin. Biofactors. 2005;25(1-4):179-185.
4. Wei YH, Wu SB, Ma YS, Lee HC. Respiratory function decline and DNA mutation in mitochondria, oxidative stress and altered gene expression during aging. Chang Gung Med J. 2009;32(2):113-132.
5. Menon GK, Dal Farra C, Botto JM, Domloge N. Mitochondria: a new focus as an anti-aging target in skin care. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2010;9(2):122-131.
6. Hudson L, Bowman A, Rashdan E, Birch- Machin MA. Mitochondrial damage and ageing using skin as a model organ. Maturitas. 2016;93:34-40.
7. Sandoval-Acuña C, Ferreira J, Speisky H. Polyphenols and mitochondria: an update on their increasingly emerging ROS-scavenging independent actions. Arch Biochem Biophys. 2014;559:75-90.
8. Zhang H, Ma ZF. Phytochemical and PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
I wake up fresh & rested +16%*
I fall asleep easily +20%
I enjoy the things I do +10%
I feel useful & needed +24%*
Skin Satisfaction
Positive Mood
Happy with signs of ageing +42%*/*
Recovering Sleep
100
-a
L*
+b
-b
+a
D0
L*a*b* = 60.3*13.1*17.0 D28
L*a*b* = 61.3*12.6*16.4 0
Figure 8: Allowing the skin to display its perfect colour. The application of the active ingredient for 4 weeks on the cheek led to a significant increase of the L*-value and to a significant decreases of a* and b* values (exemplified by arrows). L* provides data on the skin’s grey level (the lighter the skin the higher the value: 0 = black; 100 = white). a* describes green-red and b* describes blue-yellow distribution (the higher the value the redder or yellower the skin). The application of placebo, in contrast, had no significant impact (not shown). N = 20; Mean + SEM; Student’s t-test versus baseline and between treatments; * = p < 0.05; *** = p < 0.001.
Evenness +47%*
I feel nervous & anxious -15%*
I feel downhearted & blue +14%*
50 40 30 20 10 0
-10 -20
Glow & brightness +48%*
Visible health & vitality +43%*/*
Colour +44%*
Smoothness +41%*
Overall beauty +39%*
Visible youthfulness +50%*
Negative Mood
n Placebo n HerbaGlow NRG
Figure 9: Making a crucial difference to skin and life satisfaction. Percentage of improvement for subjective scoring compared to before treatment. Upon the application of a cream with active ingredient for 4 weeks, the volunteers were significantly more satisfied with their skin appearance (grey), experienced better mental comfort (green), more energy and less fatigue (blue), and less pessimistic vibes (red). N = 20; Mean; Student’s t-test versus baseline. * = p < 0.05.
Pharmacological Properties of Capparis spinosa as a Medicinal Plant. Nutrients. 2018;10(2).
9. Nabavi SF, Maggi F, Daglia M, Habtemariam S, Rastrelli L, Nabavi SM. Pharmacological Effects of Capparis spinosa L. Phytother Res. 2016;30(11):1733-1744.
10. Seo S, Lee MS, Chang E, et al. Rutin Increases Muscle Mitochondrial Biogenesis with AMPK Activation in High-Fat Diet-Induced Obese Rats. Nutrients. 2015;7(9):8152-8169.
11. Li T, Chen S, Feng T, Dong J, Li Y, Li H. Rutin protects against aging-related metabolic dysfunction. Food Funct. 2016;7(2):1147-1154.
November 2018
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