NATURALS 39
Engineering natural active ingredients
n L. Verzeaux, C. Chauprade, C. Soulié, D. Laporte, S. Le Davadic, D. Boudier, B. Closs – Silab, France
Silab creates and manufactures efficacy- proven active ingredients from natural raw materials. As efficacy, safety and stability are the hallmarks of each Silab development, all the inputs are controlled from the R&D to the manufacture in situ. To meet these requirements, an essential step, settled in Silab’s DNA, is the mastery of nature combined with a perfect in-house control of the extraction and purification process inspired by agro-food technologies. With a 30-year experience, the company has thus developed a solid expertise in enzymatic bioengineering and owns an enzymatic toolbox to isolate novel molecular structures from natural raw materials. Silab’s expertise was illustrated through the example of Recoverine®
, an
eco-designed active ingredient that is capable of stimulating epidermal renewal to ensure a functional and effective cutaneous barrier.
A concept inspired by the cell wall architecture
The cohesion of the skin barrier is ensured by a
lipids of the stratum corneum (SC) and cadherins, glycoproteins at the cell surface involved in cell-cell interactions1
(Fig 1a). In
order to develop a cosmetic active ingredient able to maximize the repair potential of the barrier function, Silab’s research team focused its supply on the chestnut, a natural raw material rich in pectin polymers. Indeed, these molecular structures are closely associated with polysaccharides, responsible for the cohesion and integrity in plant cell walls2
(Figure 1b).
The raw material requirements In order to ensure the efficacy and the safety of the resulting natural active ingredient, Silab established the identity card of a referent chestnut. Indeed, the raw material impacts the physico-chemical characteristics and the efficacy of the resulting ingredient. To guarantee the quality of the active ingredient, an organoleptic characterisation as well as botanical and analytical studies were conducted on the referent sample. This approach determines the conditions of
b
cultivation, harvest and transformation. For example, the grinding has to be soft to ensure the physico-chemical stability of the ingredient. At the botanical level (Fig 2), the presence of starch granules, cotyledons epidermis, trichome and internal tegument fragment have to be evaluated. Samples have to contain the smaller amount of internal tegument fragment to guarantee the quality of the resulting natural ingredient. The analytical evaluation depicted a range of values in terms of humidity, sugar, protein and total ash contents that have to be respected for the development of a natural active ingredient fulfilling Silab’s product standards.
A special attention paid to the raw material supply Different samples from various regions, countries, suppliers or producers were evaluated and compared to the referent sample. This quality evaluation led to the selection of a local producer for the supply. Chestnuts were cultivated at less than 30 km from Silab’s production site, allowing a
Human cell wall organisation
Plant cell wall organisation
Figure 1: Schematic representation of cell wall architecture. a. Role of the cadherin in human cell wall architecture. b. Role of the pectin in plant cell wall architecture. November 2018 PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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