NATURALS 35
combination with other naturally derived gums to create formulations ranging from semi-solid jellies through to more rigid gels. Azelis has created the Grape Cleanser, a wonderfully wobbly jelly which has a playful texture that shows the flexibility of this marine-derived thickener.
Bio butylene glycol Another step forward for formulators wanting a wide range of natural raw materials is the creation of bio-based butylene glycol. Brontide™ from Genomatica is a naturally sourced butylene glycol. Using a safe and sustainable process Genomatica have created a renewable alternative to synthetic butylene glycol, without any sacrifice in quality or complex workarounds needed, proving that natural does not have to mean compromise. It uses a plant-based feedstock to obtain butylene glycol with a purity of over 99%. This can then be used as a direct replacement for synthetically derived butylene glycol or as a natural alternative to synthetic humectants. The formulation for the sensorial mask MASKerade ‘warm up’ uses Brontide BG to create a perfectly textured film with easy application. The associated moisturising skin care benefits add to this customisable, biodegradable mask made from a sustainable cold process pectin.
Amino acid-based surfactants Another company focusing on the need for their raw materials to be environmentally sustainable is Sino Lion. Their Eversoft™ range of amino acid surfactants is created from 100% natural feed stocks. They use a safe and mild manufacturing process without organic solvents. Another advantage of this range of amino acid based surfactants is the possibility to preserve water globally. Sino Lion have shown that the Eversoft glutamates not only produce a superior foam compared to historically used surfactants, but that they are also skin-friendly, thanks to their intrinsic compatibility with skin and hair. They have also proven that these amino acid based surfactants are easy to rinse from both the skin and hair. This can lead to a reduction of almost 40% in the amount of water required to rinse the foam away, addressing the growing global need to conserve water. The flexibility of natural raw materials can be highlighted by looking at the range of starches from Agrana. These show the diversity of starches available to the formulator, as well as the flexibility they can achieve in formulations. Agrana creates sustainable raw materials which can be used as green alternatives to a range of synthetic raw materials. Reisita Natural is a native starch, which, due to its nature, can be ‘cooked’. This allows it to be used for multiple functions within a formulation. It can
November 2018
Formulation 2: Natural nourishing body milk (ref.07102016.2). Phase Ingredient
INCI A
Glycerol EUR. PH 99.5% Carbogreen
E.I.PW1
Blanova Active Allantoin EP2 Paratexin KS2 Paratexin SBG2 Aqua
B
Temest GMS3 Temest J053
Blanova Shea Butter Organic2
Blanova Coconut Oil Fractionated 2
Temest CTN3 Alcoltex 1618 F&B3
Blanova Stearic Acid 98% MIN2 Paratexin PE2
C Blueberry Extract in Glycerin4 Summer dreams 2765
Blanova Vitamin E Acetate PH EUR2
Procedure
Mix the components of phase A and phase B separately, heat both to 70-75°C. Add the components of phase B into phase A, mix until uniform, then cool. Once the temperature has fallen to 40°C, add the components of phase C. Mix until homogenous after each addition.
Glycerin
Oryza Sativa Starch, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum, Algin
Allantoin
Potassium Sorbate Sodium Benzoate Aqua
Glyceryl Stearate Diethylhexyl Adipate Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Cocos Nucifera Oil
Cetearyl Isononanoate Cetearyl Alcohol Stearic Acid
Phenoxyethanol
Aqua, Glycerin, Vaccinium Corymbosum Fruit Extract
Parfum Tocopheryl Acetate
Suppliers 1 Agrana/Azelis 2 Azelis 3 Temix/Azelis
4 BioBotanica/Azelis %
4.50 1.50
0.50 0.20 0.30
74.00 2.00 2.00 2.00
1.00
5.00 3.00 0.50 0.80 2.00
0.20 0.50
5 IFF/Azelis
be used first to create a clear gel structure by adding it to the water phase and heating, but when added to a formulation below 40°C it will remain as a powder, giving lubricity and an opaque appearance.
Rice lotion
Azelis’ Personal Care laboratories have created Rice Lotion (Formulation 1), which has the appearance of a lotion but in reality is a starch suspension within a gelled starch. The lotion has a light skin-feel and application, combined with a soft powdery, almost silicone-like feel. No shine is left on the skin, which makes it perfect for oily skin and is a texture preferred by men.
Natural nourishing body milk Carbogreen E.I PW from Assessa is a combination of 100% natural polymers, which forms a stable hydrogel structure, allowing the formation of hydrogels, serums and emulsions. The Carbogreen E.I PW is based on technology developed by Assessa that allows the formation of Interpenetrating Polymer Networks (IPNs) by using polysaccharides from natural origins. These polysaccharides form a complex cross-linked super structure to enable stabilisation of a range of
formulations, as well as forming liquid crystal structures in emulsions. The lighter feel of these formulations means they are easily absorbed into the skin, as shown by the natural nourishing body milk developed by Azelis Personal Care laboratories (Formulation 2).
Conclusion In today’s world the formulator is able to define the natural content of formulations by using guidelines such as ISO 16128, from the International Organization for Standardization (ISO). This gives guidance on definitions for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients. It offers a framework to determine the natural content of ingredients as well as formulations. The ability to create these natural
formulations from base raw materials through to highlighted actives means the formulator does not need to compromise with any aspect of their formulation. What was once the remit of niche ranges, has now become mainstream, due to the needs and wants of consumers who are no longer prepared to compromise on the performance of the products they use on their skin and hair, just to have a ‘natural’ label.
PC PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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