50 SKIN CARE
health, attractiveness and tiredness.7 A further paper in 2017 showed not only that sleep deprived individuals were perceived to be less healthy and attractive but also that the assessors would be less likely to want to socialise with them, potentially leading to social isolation of sleep deprived individuals.8
Finally a
Swedish study has shown that the faces of sleep deprived individuals were perceived as having more hanging eyelids, redder eyes, more swollen eyes, darker circles under the eyes, paler skin, more wrinkles/fine lines, and more droopy corners of the mouth.9
The link between
sleep and more aged appearance has also been highlighted in two recent publications looking at all the extrinsic factors which lead to premature skin ageing, with both listing sleep as one of the top seven contributors.10,11
Sleeping itself causes compression of the facial tissues as we rest our face on a pillow or some other sleep substrate, so does the actual act of sleeping have the potential to accentuate wrinkling? One of the first papers exploring this was by Stegman in 1987.12
Stegman was a plastic surgeon who noticed on his own face transient wrinkles appeared in the morning after a nights reclining. He identified distinct “sleep creases” which often appeared in a different plane to those caused by mechanical deformation of the skin through expression etc. For male subjects these were most commonly seen on the lateral forehead presenting as one, two or three parallel creases. For female subjects the creases were observed to be oblique to the crow’s feet lines typically seen with ageing. A further study in 2012 used a clear PVC pillow to observe how the face interacts with surfaces during sleep and observed various facial deformities and wrinkles during sleep (‘crow’s feet’ fine lines, lines around the mouth, flattening of the forehead, blunting of the nasofrontal angle, melolabial and nasolabial folds).13
An excellent review article
further identified three forces acting on the face during contact with sleep surfaces (shear, compression and tension) and identified nine distinct regions of the face where sleep wrinkles occur. The authors also explain that wrinkling caused by sleep is difficult to predict as so many factors (sleep position, type of pillow, length of sleep etc) can influence the formation and development of these lines.14 Of course the big debate with sleep wrinkles is does the side of the face which is most often in touch with the pillow or sleeping surface have more or less wrinkles than the other side? The original paper on sleep creases from Stegman implied that the side of the face which was in most contact with the pillow would have the most wrinkles. However, in 2013 Kotlus
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE Table 1
Skin Function During Day Light Highest skin protection Highest skin thickness
Highest sebum production Highest pH
Lowest cell proliferation
Skin Function During The Night Highest DNA Repair
Highest cell proliferation Highest skin temperature Highest barrier permeability
Highest skin penetration Highest itching Highest moisture loss Highest skin blood flow Lowest barrier recovery
Table 1: Skin processes during the day and night (adapted from Matsui MS, Pelle E, Dong K, Pernodet N. Biological Rhythms in the Skin. Baron E, ed. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2016;17(6):801.)
studied the faces of 41 right sided sleepers and 23 left sided sleepers and concluded: “Sleep side preference was not significantly correlated with the appearance of wrinkles or facial descent.”15
So I think at the
moment the jury is out on this one. However, a 2015 paper assessed the
perceived age of images from thirty volunteers taken while either upright or lying down. In the supine position the facial width was increased, giving the appearance of a fuller face and some key signs of ageing such as wrinkles were reduced. Overall the subjects had a reduced perceived age of 3.8 years when lying down, indicating the influence that gravity effects have on the face and how it is perceived.16
So perhaps sleeping face upright is the best option.
Conclusion There are a variety of sleep products on the market with many skin care ranges containing e.g. pillow spray SKUs. We have now started to see strong claims around sleep and the effects of sleep appear on products too. The most famous of these in the UK is the Marks and Spencer Formula Absolute Ultimate Sleep Cream, which claims: “Makes you look like you’ve had 8 hours sleep (even when you haven’t).”17 Magazines such as Glossy have declared that sleep is the next luxury which beauty brands need to exploit, and a wide variety of apps and sensors are becoming available to monitor how well we sleep. This has the makings of a growing trend and consumer need. As the interest in how long we sleep for and its link not only to skin ageing but also to health and wellness in general increases, I am sure we will see a greater focus on night creams and also stronger claims based around sleep and a tired appearance in the not too distant future.
PC
References 1 Farmer JS, Henley WE. Slang and Its Analogues Past and Present 1890; 159. 2 Connor R. The Man From Glengarry 1900
3
https://www.sciencedaily.com/terms/
circadian_rhythm.htm
4 Plikus V, Van Spyk EN, Pham K, et al. The Circadian Clock in Skin: Implications for Adult Stem Cells, Tissue Regeneration, Cancer, Aging, and Immunity Maksim, Journal of Biological Rhythms 2015; 30(3): 163 – 182.
5 Flament F, Pierre J, Delhommeau K, Adam AS. How a working day induced tiredness may alter some facial signs in differently aged Caucasian women. Int J Cosmet Sci 2017; 39: 467-475.
6
www.uhhospitals.org/about/media-news- room/current-news/2013/07/estee-lauder- clinical-trial-finds-link-between-sleep- deprivation-and-skin-aging
7 Axelsson J, Sundelin T, Ingre M, et al. Beauty sleep: experimental study on the perceived health and attractiveness of sleep deprived people. The BMJ 2010; 341: c6614.
8 Sundelin T, Lekander M, Sorjonen K, Axelsson J. Negative effects of restricted sleep on facial appearance and social appeal. Royal Society Open Science. 2017;4(5):160918.
9 Sundelin T, Lekander M, Kecklund G, et al. Cues of Fatigue: Effects of Sleep Deprivation on Facial Appearance, Sleep 2013; 36(9): 1355–1360.
10 Krutmann J, Bouloc A, Sore G, Bernard BA, Passeron T. The skin aging exposome, Journal of Dermatological Science 2017; 85(3): 152-161.
11 Clatici VG, et al. Perceived Age and Life Style. The Specific Contributions of Seven Factors Involved in Health and Beauty. Mædica 2017; 12(3): 191–201.
12 Stegman S J, Sleep Creases. Am Journal of Cosmetic Surgery 1987; 4(4): 277-280.
13 Poljsak B, Godic A, Lampe T, Dahmane R. The influence of sleeping on the formation of facial wrinkles. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2012; 14: 133-138.
14 Anson G, Kane MAC, Lambros V. Sleep Wrinkles: Facial Aging and Facial Distortion During Sleep, Aesthetic Surgery Journal 2016; 36(8): 931–940
15
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23865987 16 Flament F, Bazin R, Piot B. Influence of gravity upon some facial signs. Int J Cosmet Sci 2015; 37: 291-297.
17
https://www.telegraph.co.uk/beauty/skin/ 22-night-cream-has-waiting-list-75k/
November 2018
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