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TRENDING TECHNOLOGIES
Grants programme, is the first in a series of projects that aim to improve the efficiency and sustainability of Quintis’s sandalwood oil production and is a promising step for more sustainable oil distillation. Using technology to innovate this ancient system of distillation has allowed Quintis to further advance sustainability of this species and work to meet the demand of Indian sandalwood oil.
Proven benefits of Indian sandalwood oil Indian sandalwood oil is widely recognised for its scent in fragrance. However its powerful role as an active beauty ingredient is only scratching the surface of what it can truly offer as a single ingredient, or as a complement to other skin care ingredients. Indian sandalwood oil is a multi-functional
cosmetic ingredient that provides multiple benefits to a cosmetic preparation. While it is an excellent candidate to be a key active ingredient, it can work synergistically with other active ingredients in cosmetic formulations, going far beyond being just a wonderful scent in products. Research into the pharmacological effects
of Indian sandalwood has been extensive in recent years. Quintis recently commissioned in vitro and in vivo research into the efficacy of Indian sandalwood oil and its effect on the skin, which is proving to be the most thorough insight into the oil’s antioxidant and anti-collagenase properties to date. These results are driving demand for the ingredient even further, proving the importance of a resilient, sustainable supply. In vitro cellular research in 2021 found
that Indian sandalwood oil is a more potent antioxidant than the known lipophilic antioxidant vitamin E (alpha tocopherol). In the study, skin cells were exposed to a source of solar blue light, and those cells produced reactive oxygen species, which begins a cascade of reactions detrimental to healthy skin. However, when the cell cultures were
treated with sandalwood oil, production of reactive oxygen species reduced by up to 76%. This was measured against vitamin E with sandalwood oil performing 30-40% better at a recorded reduction.1 The study also found that Indian
sandalwood oil is capable of significantly decreasing the damage to collagen in skin tissues caused by stressors such as blue light from solar, and pollution from cigarette smoke. Most recently, in vivo clinical research released in 2022 has reinforced the cellular study findings that Indian sandalwood oil is a powerful antioxidant and offers protection against blue light damage. To evaluate the effects of Indian sandalwood
oil on skin, the level of oxidised squalene was monitored as a measurement of skin oxidation. The study assessed the protective effect of a cosmetic product containing Indian sandalwood oil against cutaneous oxidative stress induced by environmental pollution such as ambient dust and blue light at a wavelength of 412 nm. The study is the first clinical trial proving that Indian sandalwood oil at a concentration
PERSONAL CARE September 2022
between 1% and 10% protects the skin against the oxidative stress induced by ambient dust and blue light exposure.2 The results indicated that there was a dose-
dependent decrease in the levels of free radical damage, with a concentration of Quintis Indian sandalwood (1%) representing a 24% decrease in squalene monohydroperoxide (SQOOH) compared to non-treated study areas. Given these ongoing reinforced results, the
benefits of Indian sandalwood oil are clear. There is a significant opportunity for cosmetic brands to consider incorporating Indian sandalwood oil into their formulations as a protective and active anti-ageing, multi-functional ingredient in cosmetics and dermatology, opening up the potential to offer those benefits to consumers through a range of topical products. The benefits even stack up against other
trending oil ingredients that have recently been coveted in formulations over the last couple of years, like cannabidiol (CBD) oil as an example. Until recently, CBD and other cannabis ingredients were restricted globally as they were considered a narcotic substance, however they have become more mainstream off the back of research suggesting they can help manage pain and inflammation.
Cosmetic application, however, is a newer
use-case of CBD. The effectiveness of the oil as a cosmetic ingredient is mostly anecdotal, with claims around skin brightening, anti-ageing and anti-acne properties not substantiated by research or correlating concentration levels. While there have been some studies conducted on the antioxidant activity of CBD, these studies are based on gene expression, rather than actual cellular or clinical evidence, unlike Indian sandalwood. One of the main advantages of Indian
sandalwood oil is the volume of research that has been conducted into its efficacy – it has proven antioxidant, anti-microbial, anti- tyrosinase and anti-inflammatory benefits. Secondly, it is recognised internationally
as a safe ingredient – it is an approved ingredient on the Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (IECIC), is considered safe for skin application by International Fragrance Association (IFRA), and Quintis’ oil meets standards set by bodies such as International Organization for Standardization (ISO) and the British Pharmacopoeia. CBD oil, on the other hand, is not required
to meet national or international standards and seems to be mostly self-regulated by the producers. The lack of a regulatory framework is one of the reasons China has recently banned CBD oil for use in cosmetics, while other industry bodies in the EU and North America are expressing their concerns. In addition to its benefits for the skin, Indian
sandalwood oil can also be used as a fragrance in cosmetic formulations. It has a soft, woody scent with organoleptic qualities in its own right and combines well with other fragrance. The low vapour pressure grounds other fragrance ingredients and increases longevity of fragrance. It can also bring the therapeutic qualities of aromatherapy to a preparation, offering calming and improving attentiveness in the mind.3.4 Overall, this multi-functionality and the fact that these qualities are realised at low
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