SKIN MICROBIOME


into the pharmaceutical category. However, there is no clear line drawn yet when it comes to the microbiome.


Which microbiome claims are scientifically meaningful? Claims about the improvement of the skin microbiome on healthy skin require intensive clinical studies on a very specific group of people over a certain time period. These are time- and cost-intensive and give information only on a small, very specific group of people in a certain geographic region. There is no global standard healthy


microbiome, so it is almost impossible to evaluate if a product may change the human skin microbiome of everyone in a positive way. On top of that, the microbiome is affected


by many factors, such as genetics, diet, environment, lifestyle and even pet ownership. Thus, the influence of a single product is only one of many facets. Besides the missing data behind microbiome


claims, there is no consensus on how to perform studies for certain claims. The way studies are performed vary greatly in methodology. Samples are usually taken via swab, which is very variable and depends on who is collecting the sample. For the analysis of the samples, 16s rRNA/


ITS sequencing techniques are commonly used. These cover both bacteria and fungi but often lack strain resolution, which is already a recognised issue in the field of gut microbiome


analysis. The influence of a product on the microbiome cannot be understood if exact strains and their functions on the skin are not characterised.


Need for more valuable data Instead of analysing the microbiota of the skin, the analysis of its function via its metabolites would be even more valuable. As the technologies are improving, the gained data will improve as well. So, if cosmetics are influencing the


microbiome, it cannot yet be fully determined due to the lack of relevant studies. Some studies have shown that cosmetics containing


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preservatives do not have an effect on the microbiome; only antimicrobial products such as antiperspirant or foot powder showed changes.7 However, clinical studies do not simulate


real-life situations. Consumers do not use only one product per day. On average women use 12 products per day,8


are limited. Thus, we still do not know how the life-long use of a certain number of products is influencing our skin microbiome. For now, the best and the least a cosmetic


can, and should, fulfil is to not change the existing microbiome of healthy skin. The majority of cosmetics still harbour strong, non-selective antimicrobial properties that can have some effect on the skin microbiome over time. Not only that, but the customer is layering


several products a day. Ideally, we would use fewer products that are mild and ‘microbiome- friendly’, and thus do not interfere with the existing microbiome. When looking at cosmetics from the


microbiome perspective, we need a paradigm shift. Instead of searching for the most effective, active ingredient, we have to look for low activity on the microbiome, given the background that any interference is potentially harmful. In the future, we will hopefully have more data and better knowledge of how to improve the skin´s microbiome for an even healthier glow. So, which claims are meaningful?


‘Microbiome-friendly’, i.e. a product that respects the existing microbiome, is a claim that can be substantiated in a meaningful way.


and the time frames in studies


www.personalcaremagazine.com


September 2022 PERSONAL CARE


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