68 HAIR CARE SILKY ROYAL HAIR BUTTER - STYLING BUTTER
Silky Royal Hair Butter
Benchmark Silky Royal Hair Butter “(The benchmark) i can Benchmark
Silky Royal Hair Butter
tell it is already shrinking my hair. It feels like it is mostly water. Silky Royal Hair Butter felt more like a butter. As i dragged the
Silky Royal Hair Butter out, it elongated more. This one (the benchmark) is not doing that.”
-Shameria
Photos taken immediately after product application. Shows Silky Royal Hair Butter has less white cast on application
Figure 1: The presentation then provided the method and process of Dow’s hair testing capabilities
conditioning, ease of combing and curl definition. ■ Clean Scalp Scrub (shampoo scrub): A unique waterless exfoliating scalp scrub that transforms into a deep cleaning, moisturising shampoo with creamy foam upon adding water.
Textured hair routine Also highlighted were general routine trends from brand owners, salons and GAAN ERG panelist interviews. Although each person’s routine varied based on personal scalp and hair needs, the trends included the below. Testimonials were also a key part in showcasing how and why Dow’s formulations work (Figure 1). ■ Scalp treatment ■ Shampoo ■ Conditioner (comb in shower with product still on)
Hair managebility Wet and dry combing Coefficient of friction
■ Leave-in conditioner/moisturiser ■ Styling products ■ Oil/serums/sprays to maintain until next wash
Methods First, the fundamental understanding of highly textured hair physiochemistry was investigated.Test methods were designed and modified for type 3 and 4 hair types (Andre Walker Scale). Test procedures used included coefficient
of friction, combing, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), heat protection, curl definition and retention, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), hydrophobicity, visual evaluation and sensory evaluation. In addition, Bossa Nova Technology’s
RUMBA instrument was utilised to measure hair orientation for dark and highly textured hair. The measurement can be done on hair
Heat protection
tresses or directly on a consumer’s head. This allows the evaluation of curl definition across different hair types by looking at the mean angle of the hair at a specific vertical location and the standard deviation of that mean angle. Finally, a Corneometer - a device used
to determine hydration levels on the skin accurately - was tested for moisturisation. These methods screened technologies and identified the best candidates to take forward for consumer testing.
Results Studying the physiochemistry of highly textured hair, the results showed lipid layer compositional differences, higher cuticle packing, higher ellipticity, lower hair population density, and increased porosity leading to a lack of moisturisation perception and harsher feel. In addition, the increased combing force,
Dia-Stron MTT 175, vertical stand
Hair Styling
Dia-Stron MTT 175, horizontal stand
Resistance to breakage AFRICAN 3C TRESSES Untreated
Sealing Hair Oil
Benchmark RUMBA BEFORE AFTER
as well as very low hair manageability and style retention, show differences compared to Caucasian hair (Table 1). The SEM in Figure 3 shows the ellipticity and diameter of different hair types. It also shows the differences in the damage levels and cuticle packing. This emphasises the differences in the surface, which leads to higher treatment levels for the African tresses over Chinese and Caucasian tresses. Note the Mongolian weave, for example.
Water Control 2% CE-7080 2% AG 00 Curl retention Figure 2: Summary of various test methods used in this study PERSONAL CARE September 2022
If this were to focus on the curl pattern or texture and ignore the ethnicity differences in the physicochemical properties of the hair, testing and product development would be flawed. The Mongolian hair is of a curl pattern or texture 3C, but it looks completely different from African 3C hair. It is essential to consider curl pattern,
texture, and ethnicity – all equally critical – to formulating and selecting the best technologies to deliver benefits and meet unmet needs. The in vitro testing on hair
www.personalcaremagazine.com Benchmark
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