64 HAIR CARE
NON-TREATED hair
Hair TREATED with C15-19 alkanes/hydrogenated polyfarnesene
dimethicone/dimethiconol
Hair TREATED with
Figure 2: Observation by SEM-FEG (Scanning Electron Microscopy - Field Emission Gun) of non-treated hair, hair treated with C15-19 alkanes/ hydrogenated polyfarnesene and hair treated with dimethicone/dimethiconol blend
meaning that their performance is similar. The same method was then used to assess the performance of both products in a leave-on hair serum formulation. The first test condition is to treat the hair tress with the placebo serum and to expose it to thermal stress. The second and third conditions are to treat
the hair tresses with the placebo formulation containing, in addition, either 3% DMD or 3% C15-19 alkanes/hydrogenated polyfarnesene, and to expose them to thermal stress. Results can be observed in Figure 4. The tresses having been treated have
a higher k-index and a significant gain of +22% thermal protective effect on the keratin inner structure against heat damages is observed versus placebo. Once again, there are no significant differences between both treatments, meaning that the performance of DMD and C15-19 alkanes/hydrogenated polyfarnesene is comparable.
Sensoriality To compare the sensoriality performance of DMD and C15-19 alkanes/hydrogenated polyfarnesene, a triangle test was performed by an expert panel. The principle of this triangle test is to present in a random arrangement three pre-treated tresses to the panelists.
Among these samples, two are identical
1.0 0.9 0.8 0.7 0.6 0.5 0.4 0.3 0.2 0.1
HEALTHY keratin
NO thermal treatment
DAMAGED keratin
THERMAL TREATMENT without product
PRESERVED keratin with both tested products
polyfarnesene (pure)
+ C15-19 alkanes/ hydrogenated
THERMAL TREATMENT
dimethiconol blend (pure)
Figure 3: Keratin visualization through polarimetric imaging method PERSONAL CARE September 2022
TREATMENT+ dimethiconol/
THERMAL
& the third is different. Subjects are asked to identify the tress that is different from the two others by evaluating different sensory parameters: ease of combing, glossy effect, volume control, gliding effect, greasy sensation and presence of the product (film deposit, product feel). They can also comment on the sensory of each tress. The test was realized on damaged
Caucasian hair tresses, treated with a rinse-off hair mask containing either 3% DMD or 3% C15- 19 alkanes/hydrogenated polyfarnesene. No significant difference was observed between the three tresses. DMD and C15-19 alkanes/ hydrogenated polyfarnesene present therefore a similar sensory profile, based on the studied descriptors. Once again, the product C15-19 alkanes/
hydrogenated polyfarnesene represents a sustainable alternative to classical dimethiconol blends offering the same level of performance.
Volume control & curl definition Following the good results obtained to previous testings, further investigations were made. The evaluation of the volume control and curl definition effect was interesting to perform and gave the opportunity to test the performance of C15-19 alkanes/hydrogenated polyfarnesene on a different hair type. Indeed, natural Brazilian tresses were used and treated with a leave-on serum. Besides
1.0 0.9 0.8 0.7 0.6 0.5 0.4 0.3 0.2 0.1
HEALTHY keratin (negative control)
NO thermal treatment
DAMAGED keratin THERMAL
TREATMENT + placebo (serum formulation)
PRESERVED keratin with both tested products
THERMAL TREATMENT + 3% of C15-19
alkanes/hydrogenated polyfarnesene in a serum formulation
TREATMENT +3% of dimethiconol/ dimethiconol in a serum formulation
Figure 4: Keratin visualization through polarimetric imaging method
www.personalcaremagazine.com THERMAL
the untreated hair tress (A), the first test condition (B) was to treat a hair tress with the placebo serum. The second (C) and third conditions (D) were to treat the hair tresses with the placebo formulation containing respectively, in addition, either 3% C15-19 alkanes/hydrogenated polyfarnesene or 3% cyclopentasiloxane/dimethiconol (CXD). The formula was applied once on wet hair
and the tresses were then dried in a climatic chamber under controlled temperature & humidity conditions at 20°C & 50% HR during six hours. The evaluation of volume control and curl definition is followed visually at the application of the formula, after four hours and up to six hours. The results can be observed in Figure 5. The non-treated condition (A) came back to
its natural look after four hours. A volume control and curl definition effect are observed on the three other conditions after four and six hours. However, the performance is better
after four hours for the C15-19 alkanes/ hydrogenated polyfarnesene treated tress, and is even more important and visible after six hours. For the volume control claim, C15- 19 alkanes/hydrogenated polyfarnesene is therefore, not only a sustainable alternative to CXD, but also a more performant solution.
Conclusion Hydogenated polyfarnesene, combined
k-index
k-index
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