SKIN MICROBIOME
Upcycled, moisturising and skin-friendly xylitol
Piera Pericu - IFF Health & Biosciences
The number of new skin care products featuring a microbiome-related claim has increased sharply over the last few years and it has become one of the most talked about drivers of product innovation in the category.1 At the same time, consumers’ interest in
environmental and ethical beauty continue to soar and influence purchasing decisions. A comparison between product launches featuring a sustainability claim between 2012 and 2022 showed an increase of nearly 70%.2 Of course, this does not mean that consumers are willing to compromise on the skin-hydrating performance of their chosen moisturiser. Far from it. Rather, these trends have created a more complex set of demands. The challenge facing formulators and brand owners is how to respond effectively with efficacious products that have minimum impact on the environment. In this article, we explain why a new highly purified xylitol - known as Genencare® XL - may be the key to meeting these expectations. This bioactive material not only sets a new benchmark in terms of xylitol sustainability, it has also been shown through scientific data to maintain skin hydration while supporting a healthy microbiome profile.
More than just hydration In modern life, dry skin can be caused by multiple factors. Ageing, skin type and over-zealous facial cleansing routines, as well as extreme weather conditions and air conditioning can all have a negative impact. Adequate skin hydration is considered critical for maintaining healthy skin.3
If water
content in the outermost layer of the epidermis - the stratum corneum - drops below the ideal 10-15%, the skin is considered dehydrated.4 As a result, one is likely to feel uncomfortable and will experience symptoms such as loss of suppleness and smoothness, greater sensitivity to environmental stress and irritants, as well as an increased appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Traditionally, moisturising strategies are
focused on maintaining and retaining water within the skin tissue. However, we now know that the skin does not consist of just skin cells but home to trillions of bacteria, fungi and viruses. Skin microbiome research has shown
that the presence of this busy ecosystem of microorganisms is essential to protect the skin against the invading pathogens responsible for various disorders, such as infections and eczema.5
skin microbiome, the stronger the defence. Crucially, when it comes to combatting
dry skin, both hydration and a balanced skin microbiome are essential. Furthermore, they are also interrelated. Skin dryness disturbs the skin microbiome equilibrium by creating suitable conditions for opportunistic pathogens, such as S. aureus, to take over other commensals: the non-harmful microbes that live on the skin epidermis. This causes a condition known as dysbiosis,
Figure 1: A large diversity of commensal bacteria constitutes the normal skin microbiota
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Figure 2: Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus) becomes predominant and breaks skin barrier
where disruption to the microbiota homeostasis changes their metabolic function and activity. That, in turn, damages the skin barrier and provokes further dryness. In other words, skin dryness is both a cause and effect (Figure 3). This understanding adds an important new
September 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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In fact, the greater the diversity of the
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