SKIN MICROBIOME
Taking care of skin microbiota with biotech
Arianna Filippini, Stefania Zanzottera - Roelmi HPC
The human skin microbiota, with its complexity and variability, has become a touchstone for cosmetic research teams, opening various scenarios to be considered before the launch of a new product. Nowadays, understanding the skin microbiota and how to maintain its delicate balance is an essential step to gain insight into the mechanisms responsible for healthy skin appearance.1 In fact, cosmetic formulations have
greatly broadened their role on the skin: the interactions to be considered have become multiple and complex - not only related to the epidermis, but also with the microbial community present on the skin, which are very different between individuals and subject to numerous stresses. Thus, active ingredients have expanded
their effectiveness, taking into account also skin microorganisms, bacteria, fungi and more, including – probably – things that have yet to be considered. The same applies to functional ingredients and even more to preservatives created to keep cells under control, and similar to those of the skin microbiota and that could, if not dosed correctly, affect the balance and health of the skin.2 The ‘microbiome-friendly’ cosmetics trend
is therefore gaining ground, and reaching new product categories. An increasing number of consumers seem to understand the importance of bacteria for the beauty of their health or skin. In light of this, brands have developed their product ranges and scientific knowledge on this issue, while cosmetic chemical manufacturers have broadened their offering based on fermented actives. Mintel Global New Products Database market analysis has revealed that since
2017 there has been an exponential growth of products launched on the market with microbiome/microbiota claims. This cosmetic revolution has taken hold all over the planet: the same comments can be applied to specific analysis on Europe, Asia-Pacific and North America. Looking at numbers regarding the European
market, items with microbiota-care claims trebled between 2016 and 2019 and doubled again in the past three years. In the Asia-Pacific
TABLE 1: SUMMARY OF INGREDIENTS APPLICATIONS AND KEY POINTS ÆCTive
EquiBiotics LRh Application
■ Skin microbiota defence ■ Hydration & nutrition ■ Protective & prevention treatment
■ Acne-prone skin Key points
■ Skin environment care ■ Skin balance ■ Microbiota eubiosis ■ Cellular defense
■ Sensitive skin ■ Soothing treatment ■ Chemical stressed skin ■ Make-up care
■ Skin microbiota care ■ Skin ecosystem wellbeing ■ Natural skin defence support
■ Skin barrier strengthening
www.personalcaremagazine.com Ener-GY plus
■ Pro-ageing skin care ■ Anti-fatigue effect ■ Revitalising treatment ■ Tired & stressed skin
■ Skin ecosystem care ■ Skin energy booster ■ Enzymatic technology ■ Sustainable Mediterranean solvents
region, the number of products launched with this purpose became an amazing ten times higher. In the North American market, meanwhile,
finished products aimed at microbiota wellbeing doubled in 2018 compared to the previous year and has continued to trend upwards in the four years since. In general, looking at the numbers, Europe
seems to be the heart of this skin microbiota product trend, with more than 2000 items launched. As with other cosmetics trends, this is probably related to the location of the main manufacturers. North America followed with more than 600 products launched with microbiota claims, with Asia-Pacific next. To summarise, more and more products
containing pre-, pro- and post-biotics have been launched with claims referring to the rebalance of skin microbiota. Starting from skincare up to active colour cosmetics, the microworld is a hot topic that needs appropriate technological compounds.
Multiple approaches for a special care of skin microworld In this context, Roelmi HPC has designed specific ingredients to improve the skin
September 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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