40 SKIN MICROBIOME
ecosystem and to counteract skin discomforts, through topical applications (Table 1). Technologies under the umbrella of the so- called white biotechnology have been involved to develop a series of microbiome-friendly ingredients. Initially an osmolyte has been developed,
able to rebalance the skin environment suffering from external stresses like air pollution or salty/ chlorinated water. Subsequently, a probiotic- derived ingredient able to strengthen skin barrier has been conceived. As a result of Rolemi HPC’s research and development, the company is launching a new cellular energiser. Those ingredients represent a
groundbreaking approach and they enter into the biotech portfolio, composed by a range of 2.0 full-spectrum hyaluronans mimicking skin physiology by providing multiple skin benefits. Overcoming the standard concept of sodium
hyaluronate (SH) and its acidic form (hyaluronic acid), 2.0 full-spectrum hyaluronans provide an ‘ecological’ beauty routine for skin because they are able to reproduce human physiological requirements. This is done by focusing on a wide spectrum
of efficacy, which mediates a specific cellular answer through the activation of different cell receptors and the fine-tuned effect of skin regeneration processes in a physiological-like stimulation.
Biotech postbiotic as a guardian for skin microbiota ÆCTive® (INCI: Ectoin) is a biotechnological GMO-free metabolite made from selected bacterial strains that show a particular ability to rebalance against environmental stresses. It has demonstrated the ability to re-establish the eubiosis among different populations of microorganisms, helping the skin to remain healthy and recover from acute stress. Independent from personal human
microbiota composition, this innovative ingredient is able to be effective on any skin type, as its first target is the balancing of skin microenvironment and not the single microorganism species. It is also able to protect in general cell viability and improve cell metabolism during osmostress induction, activating cells in reacting to environmental stress and maintaining the equilibrium. This ingredient is also able to balance
the existing bacterial environment on the skin, so the whole microbiota ecosystem. It also counteracts the damage induced by skin exposome, improving skin complexion and preventing all potential correlated skin disorders. It concurs to avoid dysbiosis and related skin distresses demonstrating a proved efficacy rate in improving hydration, elasticity and sebum control as a unique result of skin microbiota care (Figure 1).
Probiotic-derived ingredient for skin harmony EquiBiotics® LRh (INCI: Maltodextrin, Lactobacillus) is a probiotic-derived ingredient obtained from the specific strain L. rhamnosus LRH020, selected for its strain-specific activity focused on protection from skin pathogens and
PERSONAL CARE September 2022
25 20 15 10 5 0
CTR- CTR+ 1% ÆCTive 0.5% ÆCTive
Figure 1: In vitro study - human skin keratinocytes were treated with the cosmetic active at two concentrations for 48 hours and with LPS (Lipopolysaccharides) for the subsequent 24 hours. In all the conditions β-Defensin 1 (β-DF1) expression was measured by ELISA. The same evaluations were performed on untreated negative control condition (CTR-) and positive control condition (cells treated with only LPS, CTR+). The results were expressed as β –DF1 (pg/ml) and as variation vs. CTRs
400 350 300 250 200 150 100 50 0
*
° ° CTR- CTR+
1% L.rhamnosus LRH020 300B
1% EquiBiotics LRh020 10B
Figure 2: In vitro study - evaluation of the anti-inflammatory activity in cell cultures (human keratinocytes), in presence of an inflammation agent (SDS 0.05 mg/ml). The activity was measured by TNF-alpha dosage in the culture medium. The results are compared to the negative control (cells without any stress condition) and reported as % variation too * p<0.05 vs CTR-, ° p<0.05 vs CTR+
modulation of the natural immune responses. It is developed through innovative
biotechnological processes that preserve its structural integrity and, at the same time, amplify its cosmetic sensorial properties. Thanks to its preserved structure, it is able to adopt cross-talk mechanisms with the skin ecosystem, favouring the skin’s natural defenses and a balanced skin microbiota. The novel ingredient shows the ability
in counteracting the damage caused by aggressive multifactorial agents. Through a triple mechanism of action, it demonstrates a particular efficacy in helping to strengthen the natural skin defenses, in preventing the pathogens colonisation and in providing a metabolic support to the physiological skin microbiota (Figure 2). It is also able to interact with the skin
ecosystem, restoring the natural harmony between skin barrier and its microbiota.
The result is a strengthened skin barrier and a long-term healthy complexion.
A sustainability-driven active for smiling skin Ener-GY plus (INCI: Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Glyceryl Glucoside, Glycerin, Potassium Sorbate) is a cell energy–inducing active ingredient designed to optimise mitochondrial activation. Developed by enzymatic technology, where the best of scientific method and the best of nature richness are mobilised for extraordinary results, to respect the planet’s resources. Thanks to its specific efficacy in supporting
mitochondrial biochemical pathways, it provides positive conditions for metabolism and trophic cell processes. It concurs to increase the ATP (adenosine triphosphate) volume in the cell system, by modulating positively and significantly the cell energising activity.
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TNFalpha (pg/ml)
ß DF1 (pg/ml)
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