Volume 23 Issue 8
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CONTENTS
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REGULARS 5
7 9
Editor’s Comment
Cover Story: Lipoid Kosmetik AG News
99 Formulations Get inspiration for your next project with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers
FEATURES 17
17 Interview: Ségolène Moyrand-Gros,
president, Gattefossé The great-great granddaughter of company founder Louis Gattefossé, talks about the unique challenges of running a family firm and its wider objectives
23 Skin microbiome claims - science
versus marketing Dr Kristin Neumann of MyMicrobiome dissects the trending topic of skin microbiome: what it is, and how the science can match the marketing claims
27 Upcycled, moisturising and skin-
friendly xylitol Piera Pericu of IFF Health & Biosciences explain what xylitol has to offer as a natural active with proven benefits for skin health
32 Harnessing marine organic
osmolytes for better ageing Microalgae Solutions explains how it has harnessed an osmolyte-rich extract to create a bioactive ingredient that reduces the impact of photoageing and restores the skin’s natural well-ageing
39 Taking care of skin microbiota
with biotech Roelmi HPC has designed specific ingredients to improve the skin ecosystem and to counteract skin discomforts through topical applications
42 IFSCC Congress ready for London International
return A four-page preview of the 32nd
Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) Congress in London, including an interview with Dave Shannon, Consumer Care President at Croda
56 27
47 Fucoidan: Where science meets
sustainability Advanced green chemistry technologies have placed novel seaweed extracts at the forefront of science and sustainability, says Marinova
50 Clean beauty natural deodorant
formulations Clariant explains how the combination of Velsan CGE and CareMag D can satisfy the most important requirements of actual consumers oriented to Clean Beauty deodorants without compromising the performance and skin homeostasis
56 Alginates from seaweed for natural
textures Algaia, the first brown seaweed processor in France, looks at alginates from fresh laminaria seaweed harvested sustainably on the seabed in the Iroise Sea off the Breton coast
59 Yeast ferment extract for a healthy
scalp BASF has harnessed the power of a yeast ferment extract created by nature and from nature: rapeseed oil and sugar are fermented by the yeast Starmerella bombicola
63 Sustainable alternative to viscous
silicones Seppic has launched a hydrogenated polyfarnesene-based hair care ingredient as a sustainable alternative to viscous silicones
67 Bridging the gap in the textured hair
care market Partnering with internal employees and technical experts, Dow has developed a set of six unique formulations designed to provide benefits to highly textured hair
76 71 Catering to skincare needs with
hectorite clay Elementis explores how a small quaternary treatment allows hectorite to bring multiple benefits to the oil phase of a formulation while remaining up to 99% naturally-derived
76 The benefits of recycled silicone
polymers Alexander Selig of CHT explains how the German firm was able to create and develop a process to use monomers made from silicone waste to bring them back into a high-quality polymer
81 Novel active ingredient to restore
facial harmony Lubrizol Life Science has identified a new mechanism by which psychological stress can damage the skin, and demonstrated that a new biotechnological active ingredient can reverse this damage
86 Benefits of biotechnically fermented
ingredients As the skin microbiome has become more prevalent, so too has the use of fermented products, probiotics and yeast as skin care ingredients, as Kim Cervino of Opia Nova LLC explains
91 Caesalpinia spinosa for skin ageing
protection Cobiosa looks at Caesalpinia spinosa, also known as Tara or Peruvian carob, a native species of Peru that is widely distributed in Latin America
95 Technological innovation in Indian
sandalwood oil Indian sandalwood oil’s role as an active beauty ingredient is only scratching the surface of what it can truly offer, says Quintis Sandalwood
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September 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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