12
NEWS
BASF lifts lid on anti-ageing ingredient with live probiotic
BASF has launched Probiolift and Postbiolift, a pair of biotic anti- ageing skincare active ingredients based on bacterium found in youthful skin. Probiolift, which BASF says is the
first cosmetic ingredient with live probiotic, is designed to help make the skin appear fuller and improves the appearance of forehead wrinkles. Probiolift is made of living but
dormant Lactobacillus crispatus (L. crispatus) bacteria that awaken in contact with water on the skin. Postbiolift, a postbiotic, is
meanwhile said to help make the skin appear more elastic, smooths the appearance of crow’s feet wrinkles, and creates an appearance of an even complexion. The German giant claims that, unlike other biotics existing on
said Cécile Kalem, BASF Launch Manager for Active Ingredients in Europe.
“What is common practice in
the cosmetic market, the newly developed ingredients are the first to use a bacterium that is found naturally in the skin. L. crispatus is a Gram-positive
rod shape anaerobic bacterium that has been found to decrease with age.
“Consumers are increasingly
aware of the health benefits that biotic ingredients offer, whether pre-, pro- or postbiotics. This trend has its roots in the food industry,”
this field has, up to now, been one of the most challenging tasks for the personal care industry: incorporating living skin bacteria into cosmetic formulations and keeping them active,” she added. “With Probiolift, we have found
a solution for this challenge – a real breakthrough by our research and development teams.” BASF said a new study on the
difference in the facial microbiome composition of young and old people found that lactic acid bacteria, including Lactobacilli, noticeably decrease in mature skin. “The L. crispatus specie in particular decreased in the undereye zone and was not
detectable in the wrinkle hollow of the older volunteers,” the company said.
“This finding has led BASF
researchers to assume that L. crispatus, isolated from human skin, may be the key to more youthful looking skin,” it added. “With Probiolift, we have found
a solution for this challenge – a real breakthrough by our research and development teams.” In a related development,
BASF has launched ComfortBD, a natural CBD-based active derived from industrial hemp, in the US. ComfortBD is said to maximise benefits in skincare formulas, helping to mattify and soothe the skin along with reducing the appearance of red, irritated skin. The active is naturally extracted from L. cannabis sativa.
Givaudan unleashes microencapsulated HA for lip care
Givaudan Active Beauty has launched Spherulite HA Ultimate, the Swiss outfit's sustainable microencapsulated hyaluronic acid (HA) dedicated to lip care. The company says the active
ingredient is able to deliver high molecular weight HA to deeper skin layers thanks to vectorization technology. Dedicated to lip care, Spherulite
HA Ultimate demonstrates significant instant and long-term plumping benefit, it adds. HA is widely used in well-ageing
solutions as it plays a major role in keeping skin hydrated and plumped. The compound is commonly
used clinically as a filler for fine lines and wrinkles; however, a majority of consumers remain cautious about injections. Marina Egorova, Visuals and Vectorization Category Manager for Givaudan Active Beauty, said: “The advanced microencapsulation
technology of Spherulite allows the vectorisation of HMW HA through multi-layered crystalline microcapsules.
“The non-ionic nature of
the capsule enables it to better penetrate the upper layers of the skin to the target activity site where pure HA is slowly released for a long-lasting effect,” she added. “Additionally, the
new formulation of Spherulite HA Ultimate is high sustainable as it contains
upcycled natural vitamin E and no preservatives. The natural origin content of the product according to ISO 16128 is 100%.” Givaudan says the performance
of Spherulite HA Ultimate has been certified by Raman spectroscopy measurement demonstrating a penetration in the stratum corneum and the epidermis up to 50 μm. The ingredient is also clinically
tested on women and demonstrates significant improvements in plumping effect, up to 12.4% after 30 minutes and 21.4% at D28.
Silab unveils Apioskin natural plumping active ingredient
French cosmetic chemicals developer Silab has taken the wraps off Apioskin, a natural plumping active ingredient with hydrating properties. The new product is purified
in Apiogalacturonans (APG) from giant duckweed (Spirodela polyrhiza), which is said to contain a unique pectin giving it its capacity to bind water. Silab claims Apioskin activates the biological levers of cutaneous
hydration (aquaporins, osmolyte transporter, natural moisturising factor). “Tested in vivo at 3% in
Caucasian and Asian volunteers, the active ingredient thus provides a flash and long-lasting hydration to dehydrated skin, superficially and in depth (from the stratum corneum to the upper dermis),” the company said.
“The skin is thus beautified as of 21 days of application:
PERSONAL CARE September 2022
dehydration lines are smoothed, facial volumes are redefined, and complexion radiance is revived. 100% of the Caucasian volunteers reported that their skin was more hydrated, softer, more comfortable, and more luminous,” it added. Apioskin is a patented active
ingredient recommended in all plumping skin care products at a dose of 0.5 to 3%. Available in aqueous solution,
Silab says Apioskin is easy to formulate, complies with biodiversity regulations and has a natural origin content of 99.2% (ISO 16128).
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104
