MARINE INGREDIENTS


■ Satialgine ■ Algogel ■ Algogel + Ca


Spreadable Smooth


5 4 3 2 1


0


57


Greasy


Sticky Figure 1: Sensory properties of alginates


molecular weight alginate, with a structure predominantly based on mannuronic acid (M/G ratio > 1) will bring consistency to the emulsion, according to data on the viscoelastic physical behaviour of G’G’’, with none of the stringiness of xanthan. Recent work has shown that this consistency


could be easily modulated by a controlled gelling, using a calcium sequestrant for example1


.


The most versatile aspect of modulated alginate, its many intrinsic properties, could make it suitable for use in many emulsions.


Biocompatibility & stability Thanks to their ionic polysaccharide nature, alginic acid and alginates feature excellent biocompatibility with the skin, on a par with that of hyaluronic acid. From a sensory point of view, the molecular weight of alginates, in the high range of natural polymers (varying between 200 and 600 KDa), gives them film-forming properties, leading to a non-sticky, non-greasy residual film on the skin (Figure 1). Like all water-soluble or hygroscopic


polysaccharides, alginates have an interesting water retention capacity for skin hydration, through the measurement of trans-epidermal water loss2


. Indeed, these polysaccharides make


it possible to bind a large quantity of water while limiting syneresis. Moreover, the partial substitution of xanthan


by alginate can in some cases reduce the stringiness in emulsions and lead to a uniform


Sodium alginate Water-based solution


Pseudoplastic properties Viscosity increase


Elastic & flexible gel Strong & non-thermoreversible gel


Light contraction with syneresis Brittle gel with contraction & water expulsion


Table 1: Thickening & gelling properties of alginates www.personalcaremagazine.com September 2022 PERSONAL CARE +++ ++++


High cross-linking Precipitation


and cohesive texture. Alginate is an effective product at low dosage, with high compatibility with the different industrial processes as well as with other hydrocolloids, which facilitates its use.


Conclusion People have always used brown seaweeds in their diet and for their well-being. Today, they are confirming their potential for an industry looking for ingredients combining naturalness and cosmetic functionalities. Brown seaweeds, and in particular laminaria seaweed harvested from the Iroise Sea, represent a choice resource for cosmetics manufacturers. Algaia’s long-term partnership with


professionals in the Breton algal industry is a significant advantage that allows privileged access to a fresh, local algal resource. This close partnership is perfectly in line with the company’s approach to sustainable development and the enhancement of its algal resources.


References: 1. Terescenco et al. Bio-sourced polymers in cosmetic emulsions: A hidden potential of the alginates as thickeners & gelling agents. Forthcoming


2. Kozlowska J et al. Controlling the skin barrier quality through the application of polymeric films containing microspheres with encapsulated plant extract. Processes. 2020. 8, 530


Calcium 0


Behaviour No cross-linking +


Very low cross-linking Medium linking


Shiny


PC


GELIFYING


THICKENING


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