COVER STORY: LIPOID KOSMETIK AG ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
PhytoCollagen: the plant-based alternative
Collagen is a long helical biopolymer that gives structure and stability to human tissues. In cosmetics, it is one of the most popular active ingredients - it finds applications as anti- ageing active, moisturizer, or as film former. Yet, collagen is derived from animal or synthetic sources which does not follow current cosmetic trends that drift away from animal-derived raw materials towards plant-derived, sustainable alternatives. With PhytoCollagen we offer a collagen alternative sourced from the acacia tree that combines the cosmetic benefits of collagen with a green, sustainable source. This plant- derived collagen alternative perfectly matches consumer expectations: In a consumer study, 69% of participants said they prefer vegetal collagen over animal collagen (5%) in their personal care products. Simultaneously, in vivo studies confirmed that the collagen substitute from the acacia tree entirely mimics the cosmetic benefits of animal collagen. This makes it an ideal replacement – a truly plant-derived, sustainable, green, vegan, alternative to animal collagen that is currently used in cosmetics.
Natural alternatives from the acacia tree Collagen is the most abundant structural polymer throughout the animal kingdom - it provides strength, elasticity and resilience to animal and human tissues. In addition, collagen is one of the most popular cosmetic ingredients. Despite its popularity, collagen is mainly derived from animal sources, which is a disadvantage in times when consumer awareness of animal welfare has made animal-derived cosmetic raw materials unpopular. Unfortunately, plants do not produce genuine collagen. Instead, the functional requirement for strength, elasticity, wound healing and water retention, in plants is filled by long, branched biopolymers. One example is arabinogalactan from the acacia tree. The cosmetic preparation of such acacia
ACACIA TREE September 2022 PERSONAL CARE INGREDIENTS ● FORMULATION ●
MANUFACTURE GLOBAL
Untreated ■ 1% PhytoCollagen ■ 1% Animal Collagen ■ +41%
60 40 20 0
+33% *
* * * 7 days 14 days
Skin microbiome claims - science versus marketing
Interview: Gattefossé president Ségolène Moyrand-Gros
Harnessing marine organic osmolytes for better ageing
tree biopolymers is marketed PhytoCollagen (Figure 1). Despite the structural differences, PhytoCollagen shares many of the cosmetic benefits with animal collagen.
Meeting consumer expectations In a consumer study, participants were asked to directly compare plant-derived collagen with synthetic collagen and animal collagen, to find the most attractive form for cosmetics. And the results were very clear. First, consumers associate collagen with cosmetic benefits - they expect collagen to be a powerful active ingredient with anti-ageing, moisturizing and protective properties. Second, consumers have a clear preference for plant-derived collagen. When given the choice between plant-derived, animal- derived, or synthetic collagen, they attribute higher
ACACIA COLLAGEN PHYTOCOLLAGEN
Figure 2: PhytoCollagen mimics animal collagen by improving skin hydration to the same extent. 20 women with dry skin applied a test cream with 1% PhytoCollagen to one forearm and a second test cream containing 1% animal collagen to the other forearm. After 7 and 14 days, the treatment with both products equally increased skin hydration. Skin hydration was measured with a Corneometer MPA 5 CPU. N = 20; Mean + SEM. Student’s t-test vs. untreated; * = p < 0.05
efficacy and more safety to plant-derived collagen (data not shown). Therefore, strong cosmetic concepts can be built on collagen as consumers already associate it with cosmetic benefits and positive attributes. This advantage is elaborated even further by choosing the right source of collagen - a plant-derived collagen alternative.
As effective as animal collagen To verify that PhytoCollagen mimics the action and cosmetic benefits of animal-derived collagen, a double-blind, placebo-controlled in vivo study was performed. Several age-related skin properties were measured and PhytoCollagen clearly improved all of them. These anti-ageing effects were supported by a clinical evaluation (data not shown). In addition, the moisturizing properties of PhytoCollagen to those of animal collagen were analyzed and PhytCollagen was shown to be as effective in improving skin hydration as animal collagen (Figure 2). In summary, PhytoCollagen is an all-natural,
plant-based alternative to animal collagen with similar cosmetic benefits. The powerful anti-ageing and moisturizing properties in combination with the vegan and sustainable source make it the perfect collagen alternative for the modern, conscious cosmetic consumer. PC
7
Iconic symbol of the African savannah
Traditional raw material harvested since antiquity
A cosmetic preparation based on acacia collagen
Figure 1: Acacia gum is the amber-colored resin exuded from the Acacia tree after injury, it is a natural biopolymer consisting of carbohydrates and proteins and, due to its functional similarities, is referred to as acacia collagen. PhytoCollagen is the cosmetic preparation of acacia collagen combining the cosmetic benefits of collagen with a green, sustainable source.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Lipoid Kosmetik AG Sennweidstrasse 44/46, CH-6312 Steinhausen, Switzerland Tel: +41 41 748 33 33 E-Mail:
info@lipoid-kosmetik.com Website:
www.lipoid-kosmetik.com
September 2022 PERSONAL CARE
Skin Hydration %
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104
