52 MALE GROOMING
achieve high level of body odour control while preserving skin homeostasis. Contemporarily there is a strong enthusiasm
of consumers for products safer than the aluminium-based anti-perspirant with high naturality origin index and this movement is also shifting to deodorants. There is important request for safer products without ingredients like aluminum, alcohol, triclosan, silicones and strong antimicrobials that can affect heavily affect skin microbiome. Clean beauty natural deodorants cover
formulations with less fragrance and particular attention is dedicated to overall safety profile of these products. New generations, young populations but also older people have very sensitive skin since living in very populated and polluted cities. Specifically, mild deodorants are requested by teenagers, their skin is still in evolution and needs particular care. Within this research, several molecules
were identified that have good efficacy on growth control of skin bacteria involved in body odour formation. It is fundamental to highlight that until recent years strong antimicrobial ingredients were used for deodorant application like organohalogen triclosan, triethyl citrate and farnesol.
Synergy between magnesium minerals and Caprylyl Glyceryl Ether It is observed efficient control of metabolism of body odour responsible bacteria by reduction of nutrients for these bacteria (sweat, sebum) and prevention of their excessive growth by modifying microenvironmental conditions like humidity and pH and using natural preservation and preservative boosters. Following this premise, the synergism of
Velsan® CGE (INCI: Caprylyl Glyceryl Ether) and CareMag™ D (Magnesium Hydroxide (and) Magnesium Carbonate Hydroxide) was studied for development of natural and highly efficient deodorants. This combination of ingredients permits development of various formats like aqueous gels and oil-in-water emulsions for roll-on formats, water-in-oil creams and lotions, waterless solid bars and sticks. Caprylyl Glyceryl Ether makes it easy to create different, sustainable and efficient
50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0
24 hours after washing (Baseline)
deodorants suitable for most types of skin including sensitive skin. Chemically it is octylglycerol, it has straight C8-alkyl chain and it is a similar version of fully synthetic branched well established Ethylhexylglycerin. The basic structure is shown in Figure 4. By having ether bond, Caprylyl Glyceryl
Ether shows unique chemical stability and performance over wide range of pH, relevant for different deodorant formats. It is adequate for low pH deodorants as well as with the ones functioning in alkaline range like for example solid stearate-based sticks. As a raw material, it shows very versatile physical features; it is colourless and odourless and, moreover, a very pleasant emollient. Caprylyl Glyceryl Ether is derived from
plant oils, hence from fully renewable feedstocks allowing to achieve a RCI of 100%. This can contribute significantly in developments of fully compliant DIN ISO and COSMOS natural formulations. Caprylyl Glyceryl Ether performs equally to even outperforming traditional synthetic Ethylhexylglycerin shown with minimum inhibition concentration (MIC) values in Table 1.
-42%
24 hours after washing and Product Application
Figure 5: Sniff test results for roll-on with 20% magnesium minerals
Magnesium mineral The magnesium mineral explored in this article is made of Magnesium Hydroxide and Magnesium Carbonate Hydroxide, it has 100% mineral origin, it is in a form of silky white powder obtained with physical transformation. With multifaceted modes of action that include absorption of nutrients (sweat and sebum) for body odour responsible bacteria, neutralization of volatile fatty acids and controlling bacteria growth with high pH, makes body odour responsible bacteria uncomfortable and prevents their excessive growth and fast biotransformation of sweat and sebum into the malodorous substances. This magnesium material can provide for some very pleasant formats since it acts like a velvety texturizer. The efficacy of magnesium minerals is
shown in Figure 5, which demonstrates 25 volunteers who applied simple, aqueous roll-on for seven days containing 20% of magnesium minerals resulted in a reduction of bad smell by 42%. The results of this sniff test was conducted by trained sniffing experts. The value was measured 24 hours after application, and demonstrates long-lasting
Transparent liquid Gel
1% 0% 2.5% 5%
Mousse Foaming emulsion
Spray Milk
Velsan® CGE CareMag™ D Figure 6: Deodorant formats using Caprylyl Glyceryl Ether and magnesium minerals synergism PERSONAL CARE September 2022
www.personalcaremagazine.com 7.5%
Cream (O/W, W/O) Paste in a jar
0.5% 15% 20%
Solid/stick bar Powder
Malodor Scoring on Analog Scale
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