ANTI-AGEING
Caesalpinia spinosa for skin ageing protection
Lorena Sánchez, Cristina Thiebaut - Cobiosa Industrias Asociadas
The term ‘skin ageing exposome’ refers to the external and internal factors and their interactions, affecting a human individual as well as the response of the human body to these factors that lead to biological and clinical signs of skin ageing. The skin exposome triggers oxidative
stress, which causes protein glycosylation and the formation of advanced glycosylation end- products (AGEs). Glycosylation occurs when sugars
and other compounds derived from its autoxidation react with proteins such as collagen and elastin leading to its degradation accelerating and inducing premature ageing. The term ‘exposome’ was first introduced
in 2005 by molecular epidemiologist Christopher Wild, who described it as the totality of exposures to which an individual is subjected from conception to death. A refined definition was provided in
2014 by Miller & Jones, who proposed that the exposome should be considered as a cumulative measure of environmental influences and the subsequent associated biological responses of an individual throughout their life. The exposome of human skin has not
traditionally received much attention. Interest in reaching an accurate description of the concept, as well as in knowing its impact on the human skin, has grown in recent years, supported by the fact that the exposome may be the cause of several chronic diseases. Among the set of external and internal
factors are solar radiation (UV, visible, and IR), environmental pollution, tobacco
Caesalpinia spinosa - skin ageing exposome protector Caesalpinia spinosa, also known as Tara or Peruvian carob, is a native species of Peru that is widely distributed in Latin America covering several arid regions from Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, and Bolivia to northern Chile. In Peru, the Tara fruits have been used
since the pre-Hispanic period for the preparation of dyes, because when combined with iron, they produce grey to black shades. Since the colonial period, it was applied in the tanning of hides. In traditional medicine, the infusion of
the mature pods is used as a gargle for the treatment of sore throat; the infusion of the leaves is used for stomatitis. The cooking of the pods is used against vaginal and fungal infections, for washing swollen eyes, and healing, among others. Industrially, the peel of the Tara fruits
is currently an important source for the extraction of tannins and gallic acid, as well as the seeds for the obtaining of hydrocolloids. Tannins are widely distributed in the
smoke, temperature, and nutrition, along with other less-studied factors (stress, alcohol consumption and stimulants, inadequate rest etc.), and cosmetic products. UVB and UVA radiations are the main causes
of photo-ageing, linked to characteristic signs, such as a skin-like appearance of leather, heterogeneous pigmentation (spots), and deep furrows.
These changes in the skin are generated
because, at the cellular and tissue level, the solar radiation is absorbed, which triggers the increase of the levels of ROS (reactive oxygen species) in the cells and generates oxidative stress, which induces the lipid peroxidation, mitochondrial damage and in DNA, modifications in the expression of genes and the structure and function of proteins (protein glycosylation). In addition, elevated levels of ROS
also activate the extracellular matrix metalloproteinases (ECM), such as elastase, hyaluronidase, and collagenase. The actives with broad-spectrum action, that
Figure 1: Caesalpina spinosa, also known as Tara, or Peruvian carob is a small leguminous tree or thorny shrub native to Peru
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is, with the ability to exert effects on different parameters give cosmetic formulas versatile efficacy, essential to cover the current demand presented by the skin ageing exposome.
plant kingdom that fulfils the role of chemical protection for the plant against predators and ultraviolet radiation. They are classified as hydrolysable tannins and condensed tannins. Tara pods contain a high content of
hydrolysable tannins (gallotannins, esters of gallic acid, and quinic acid) ranging from 40% to 60% according to the ecological conditions where it grows. The hydrolysis of these tannins leads to the separation of the gallic acid. Studies about the protective effect of the tannic acid of Tara found that its topical application over the skin of mice inhibited the formation of tumours by UV-B radiation. The protective effect is explained by its
ability to neutralize reactive species of oxygen produced by the UV-B radiation thus preventing the oxidation of lipids of the membrane and the skin damage by these species. Another study with tannic acids of Tara on
human keratinocytes and mice suggests that tannic acids have significant anti-inflammatory effects on the skin response induced by UV-B. Also known as Peruvian carob, Caesalpinia is a rich source of bioactive compounds. Tara pods present a high content of polyphenols, essential constituents in the physiology of many plants, protecting them from harmful physical and biological events. Plant polyphenols are potent antioxidants
September 2022 PERSONAL CARE
91
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