82 ANTI-AGEING
using a new biotechnological extract of a Bacillus sp. isolated from the Florida Keys, USA. As shown in Figure 3, results demonstrated that the Bacillus Ferment can prevent this cortisol-induced damage to TCs. To check if cortisol could alter exosome
production in TCs, the number and size of particles isolated from TCs supernatants was quantified by Nanoparticles Tracking Analysis. With cortisol treatment, exosome release was reduced to levels below detection. Yet treatment with Bacillus Ferment helped to prevent such a reduction in exosome number, suggesting that with the treatment TCs were still able to communicate with their neighbouring cells, including stem cells.
Analysis of facial harmony in women suffering psychological stress Seventy-one female volunteers aged between 35 and 50 years old were recruited for two clinical studies. Volunteers included in the study met specific criteria of psychological stress, which was assessed by measuring salivary cortisol levels. Two different samples of saliva were
collected for each volunteer during the same day, at 8am and 6pm. Physiological cortisol reference levels for the morning measurement are 0.12-1.47 µL/100 mL and for the afternoon measurement are 0.050.15 µL/100 mL. If the cortisol level detected was higher
than the corresponding levels of reference, the volunteer was considered to be experiencing psychological stress. According to recent evidence, the
symmetry of facial proportions can be altered by psychological stress.4
Quantifying
facial proportions required new innovations in facial mapping. One measurement that has been long connected with proportions and harmony is the Golden Ratio, which is represented by the Greek letter Phi or numerically as 1.618. This constant is found in nature from
seashells to flower petals, and other most prized objects in art, design and architecture in ways that please the innate sense of beauty. The Phi ratio is also used in the beauty industry, particularly among aesthetic surgeons and make-up artists to map the ideal harmony of facial features for any given individual.10,11 To measure the Phi ratio of panelists
experiencing psychological stress, macrophotographs of the face were taken. The vertical distance (in pixels) between the eye corner point to mouth corner point and mouth corner point to chin point were measured (Figure 4). Next, the ratio between these distances was calculated and subtracted from the Phi
Equation 1: X = Lx tx tx Ly ϕ Equation 2: ϕ X where X CTR Cortisol+ Telophi (1 ug/ml) Cortisol
Figure 3a: Double immunofluorescent staining for CD34/PDFGRa of skin TCs in primary culture in control condition (CTR), treated with cortisol and treated with cortisol and Bacillus Ferment
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
64.2% ***
48.8%
66.9% ***
Control
1 mM cortisol
1 mM cortisol + Bacillus Ferment (1µg/mL)
1 mM cortisol + Bacillus Ferment (25µg/mL)
Figure 3b: Mean of percentage of double positive cells in TCs culture after cortisol treatment and Bacillus Ferment treatment compared to control condition (CTR). Statistical significance: ***p<0.001 calculated using unpaired t test
value to obtain the difference from Phi value for each volunteer (Equation 1). To visualize how far the ratio value was from Phi number the mean difference from the Phi number was subtracted from Phi value and represented as displacement from Phi number at each time point and treatment (Equation 2). Among the group at applied a cream
containing 2% of Bacillus Ferment, facial proportions approached the Phi number over 28 days. Indeed, at day 28, the Phi ratio was 25% closer to the Phi ratio. On the other hand, among the placebo
group, there was no change in the Phi ratio over the same period. At 28 days, the difference between the active treatment group and the placebo group was statistically significant (Figure 5). This demonstrated that the Bacillus Ferment extract could enhance the facial proportions to reveal a more harmonious facial appearance.
Further restoring facial harmony by improving symmetry of facial features Uniformity of skin firmness was assessed by measuring the maximal deformation (R0) by cutometry. After 28 days, there was an improvement in the global skin firming effect.
where Lx corresponds to the distance from eye corner to lip corner and Ly to the distance from lip corner to chin
tx corresponds to the mean difference from Phi value
Figure 4: Representation of vertical lines used to measure the deviation of their ratio from the Phi number
Further, a comparison of the difference in skin firmness between the left and right sides of the face showed an increase in the symmetry of skin firmness by 5.4% with the cream containing the Bacillus Ferment. Next, the total chin lifting effect of the
whole face was analyzed by image analysis software. There was a statistically significant improvement in the chin lifting effect with a decrease in the oval contour area of up to 1.5% in 28 days. In addition, the uniformity of the left-right
symmetry of the chin contour was examined and it was found that the symmetry of the oval contour lifting increased by 6.3% after 28 days of treatment with the Bacillus Ferment extract. Finally, whole face skin luminosity was assessed from macroscopic images
PERSONAL CARE September 2022
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Phi ratio Lx/Ly ≈ 1.618
Telocytes number (%)
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